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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Domitille Michalon Bertier (2018)
by IFF


Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Domitille Michalon Bertier information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

PerfumerDomitille Bertier

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Domitille Michalon Bertier

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

Since our times are about creating decoys, the perfumer created a scented trompe-l’oeil. Musk without musk, tobacco without tobacco, mirroring the art of perfumery. The art of illusion

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Domitille Michalon Bertier

A modern rendition of a musky oriental fougere. It smells very Annick Menardo-ish, which is a compliment. I get echoes of Jaipur Homme and Body Kouros in particular. Sweet, powdery, simple and streamlined, but very nice. A bit of a sweet tobacco tone a la Pure Havane in the background, but a little higher pitched in its tobacco tone.

Apparently, this is supposed to be animalic, with variants of civet and castoreum involved. Judged on those terms, it does not succeed, but that said, I have to say I enjoy it. I get a sweet musk, but nothing more rapacious than that. It seems clean to me.
07th January, 2019
Domitille Bertier aims to create a fragrance smelling of tobacco and musk, without using actual tobacco and deer musk ingredients. An exercise that is in the same vein as Bruno Jovanovic and Sophie Labbé, playing olfactory tricks as it's the essence of perfumery. The result does smell like tobacco with a bit musk, but sadly not in a pleasant way to my nose.

The fragrance is dominated by tobacco right from the start. Unfortunately, it's not the kind of lively tobacco leaves like in Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, but weirdly pungent, plastic and metallic, reminiscent of cold cigarette ash and saccahrine preserved cherry with a hint of cinnamon spice.

This "cold cherry tobacco ash" effect is stubbornly persistent, and only gets significantly softened after 6 hours. The fragrance eventually becomes more creamy thanks to vanilla and white musk, but that heavy layer of cherry tobacco ash is still there until the end, only letting a tiny bit of artifical civet's manure-like tonality peek through very rarely. The sillage is overall heavy to moderate with a 10-hour longevity on my skin.

I don't know if this unpleasant sweet plastic and metallic effect is because of the limitation of materials, or if it needs an evaluator to provide a bit of artistic guide, but as it is, I don't particularly find it beautiful or compelling, despite its technical specialties.

21st November, 2018
So I tickles Baby Skank
Gives him a noogie

And then Mama says
He looks like Uncle Kouros
He looks just like him

Cep for she don't know
Baby Skank was adopted
And then I sees that

Li'l boy ain't got no
Li'l boy parts in his li'l pants
Oh we gone raise her

Without none of them
Gender pref'rence says Nilla
And then I'm thinkin'

She looks like Nilla
Alway tryin' some kinda
New-fangled thingy

Cep then I recall
We's all just characters in
Some Redneck's noggin

In some dang program
In some other program in
Some simulation

So I says out loud
Well she sure is a cute one
And that kid's got me

Thinkin' that maybe
I'll give old Kouros a call
Reckon he'd like one

So then Mama says
I never believed that boy's
Big gold tooth was real

So then I says yeah
Maybe it was just fool's gold
But it sure fooled me

I kinda like our
Neighborhood with all them kids
Just like the old times

Always some new name
I cain't pronounce quite right next
Door to one I cain

So I up and says
Thank God for Amber Woods and
Mama just laughs cuz

Amber babysits
The entire neighborhood's kids
Includin' Nilla's.
03rd October, 2018
Upon initial spray I get a very plasticky vibe with some creamy vanilla undertones. As it begins to open up I surprisingly start to get a sweet pineapple note (?!?) and the smallest amount of civet known to man. Completely inoffensive and if you didn’t know what civet actually smelled like, you could easily miss it here. It stays at this stage for a little while then dries down into a very sweet, creamy vanilla with just a hint of dry woods. Nothing groundbreaking.
11th September, 2018 (last edited: 04th October, 2018)
Stardate 20180626:

Generic Amber Vanilla. Nothing to write here. No tobacco or civet for me.
Not bad but nothing original.
26th June, 2018
Opens with a gentle tobacco leaf note and a hint of musk. Light vanilla enters and soon after, a very easy user-friendly civet. The base evolved to an almost powdery musk and tonka bean, one step away from creamy. I liked it but it was not challenging enough to be a new take on musk and tobacco or an animalic. It was very relaxed, which is fine but I expected something edgier.
17th May, 2018

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