Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Julien Rasquinet (2018)
by IFF

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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Julien Rasquinet information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

HouseIFF
PerfumerJulien Rasquinet
SupplierIFF

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Julien Rasquinet

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

Perfume originally was myrrh, burning on the altars. Since perfume contains fume, and there’s no smoke without a fire…you know where this is going. The imaginary painting is that of a myrrh tear, rubbed with silex, now white-hot. 
 

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Julien Rasquinet fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Julien Rasquinet

Incense. Frankincense? Warmer than that. Myrrh. I have trouble pegging incense varieties.

Plummy and/or boozy and a little spicy with a hit of saffron. This is a bit sweet on top but still mostly dry and resinous, reminding me somewhat of the opening night of Amouage Jubilation XXV.

This is a simple creation; it follows this spiced incense trajectory to the end, becoming more of a pure incense. Extremely dry; it conjures desert imagery.
07th January, 2019
The opening of Julien Rasquinet's "Myrveilleuse" is surprisingly sharp. Not the enthralling aldehydic opening of myrrh though, but a strangely shrieky metallic one that's probably intended to represent flintstone/gunpowder as explained on the accompanying card. There's even a lavender undertone unpleasently reminiscent of dihydromyrcenol.

Thankfully, this metallic note doesn't persist too long. The musty, resinous, simultaneously dry and balmy myrrh soon takes the center stage after about half an hour. It's at first partnered with a meaty smoky note slightly similar to that in Le Labo Patchouli 24 for another 30 minutes, then switches to licorice and boozy amber, resulting to a spicy dried plum effect.

Once the boozy/spicy plum note calms down after another 2 hours, the myrrh really starts to shine. Its medicinal coolness, and resinous, leathery, honeyed dried fruit-like tonalities act in unison to create a very soothing skin scent. Its subtle bready texture also reminds me of Mendittorosa Osang, in which this bread-like aspect is amplified tenfold.

From then on, this fragrance remains almost a myrrh solinote. When the nuances become more muffled with time, unfortunately it comes through like a sort of sugary water with a tiny hint of patchouli. Moreover, the metallic lavender effect still reers its ugly head from time to time. Even it's nowhere near the level in Loc Dong's creation, I still struggled a bit. The sillage is overall rather soft, but the fragrance can last a good 9 hours.

As myrrh is among one of my favourite notes, this fragrance, featuring various nuances of myrrh, is very easy to enjoy for me. The round, meaty smoky note is also a very nice addition. That being said, I'm still slightly disappointed because of the choice of dihydromyrcenol-like metallic note instead of other possibilites. The relative tameness of the smokiness is also a bit frustrating, especially considering that Rasquinet is behind the two remarkable smoky fragrances from Naomi Goodsir. But I'd definitely love to see it further improved in the future.
22nd November, 2018
Myrrhum myrrhvana.
Not myrrh rhum but myrrh than rhum.
Myrrhaculous myrrh.
10th October, 2018
This opens huge with a boozy, resinous, and slightly sharp kick. Within the first few moments you get that wonderfully rubbery myrrh that starts to come through alongside an ashy/flinty accord, but sadly the fragrance takes this odd ketchup-like turn that is extremely off putting. At this stage the fragrance honesty smells like food or something...like A-1 brand steak sauce. It stays here for the majority of the fragrance and dries down into a rubbery/ashy myrrh. There were certain aspects I liked about this scent, but the ketchup stage was off putting at best.
13th September, 2018
Stardate 20180622:

Amazing top. Hard to pinpoint what it is. Sweet Patchouli with some rose. Maybe Myrrh is the sweetness.
This one evolves fast. Going at lightspeed. Julien took the 7 minute thing very seriously it seems - a nerd.
The evolution goes through a smoky peppery zone(gunflint or whatever they call it in the description) and ends with some sort of sour musk.
I like it. But after 10 min it does not change and stays sour musk till you scrub it of.
25th June, 2018
I've never smelled myrrh before so this was new to me. It lay between incense and musk. Very dry. like the Sonoran desert. Almost animalic but not quite. A very meaty herb. This scent became addictive to me, and I smelled my wrist repeatedly. Hints of licorice emerged, black licorice. Overall, this fragrance was mossy, rich and staid. Not much evolution, but it smelled high quality.
17th May, 2018

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