Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Dominique Ropion (2018)
by IFF

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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Dominique Ropion information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseIFF
PerfumerDominique Ropion
SupplierIFF

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Dominique Ropion

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

The first Kyphi formulated by Dominique Ropion is used here as a base, to be twisted and turned. It is originally branded by a honey accord, containing an LMR beeswax absolute, and an LMR broom absolute. We can also find a strong dose of spices such as saffron, cardamom and ginger. In the drydown, cypriol essence - extracted from a species of papyrus - and myrrh - star ingredient in the antique world - clearly indicate that this product was indeed born on the Nile river. To modernize it, Dominique Ropion adorns it with ingredients then unknown, IFF captives such as Cosmofruit™ - and its sugared fruits notes, which express the grape featured in the original formula - and less anachronistic, but exotic, oud which blends perfectly with cypriol. The audacity of this Kyphi takes us in a time warp, and projects us into the future, as it always has.

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Dominique Ropion

Upon application, I am immediately reminded of spiced cola. Go nuts at the soda machine and mix all the fruity cola flavors, and add some Hawaiian Punch and Sunny-D for good measure. And then add some...cinnamon? Clove? It's all very spiky and fizzy. And then there's a hypermodern metallic sheen to the whole thing, which makes it seem even more fizzy.

Honestly, I'm not sure I like it, but it's pretty fun to smell. It feels like a rough first sketch of Escada Magnetism, which I like very much, was given to an AI to try to complete as it sees fit. No smooth tonka-leather base here, though. I'm not sure what the base smells like, really. Something like a sweet modern woody laundry musk, metallic and remote. I don't love it.

According to the card on this one, one of the captives listed is called "Cosmofruit" - sounds about right to me! And apparently the spice accord is meant to reflect saffon (ah ha! Magnetism!), cardamom and ginger, but they don't read as anything specific to me. Cosmospice.
07th January, 2019
I find it hard to describe the herbal and fruity opening of Ropion's modern Kyphi. The fruit here seems to flirt with stone fruits, but not as milky/plush as peach/apricot, nor is it tart and dark like plum. It has a sort of bright pulpiness of grape, but not necessarily in the realistic sense. As for the herbal aspect, it smells like a melange of Mediterranean aromatic herbs at the outset, but gradually grows dryer and takes on a palpable dried tobacco leaf vibe. What's more puzzling, is that there's even a ripe sourness suggesting tomato to me when combined with the green herbs.

Underneath all these, cold smoke of olibanum and myrrh arises. It initially adds a frosty twang to the overal composition, but when it's filtered more and more through the warm fruits and herbs, they merge together into a powdery honeyed myrrh with leathery, ripe dried fruits, and minty, icy sparkles of incense, to my delight, and I find it more full-bodied than Julien Rasquinet's myrrh fragrance in the same set.

The fragrance doesn't change much afterwards, although I did catch glimpses of leathery oud at one time. Its projection is moderate to soft during its 10-hour wear.

With its sensual honeyed myrrh dry down, this modern Kyphi is one of my favourites in 2017 Speed Smelling set, even though I'm still trying to figure out what I'm smelling in the opening. Moreover, it manages to craft a multi-facetted fragrance in a more expansive, transparent modern style, which I find commendable. I'd love to see it get released in the future.
23rd November, 2018
WARNING: This fragrance
May result in some kind of
Epiphanous state

If you fall asleep
While first experiencing
The utter weirdness

Of psychedelic
Barnyard Egypt alien
Future fruitiness.

It has pyramids
ETs, lightshow, universe
Turns into Vegas

And don't blame me for
Leaving out Moses, cat gods
Steve Jobs and the rest

All bordering on
Simulation awareness
Though to be honest

Mileage may vary
Near the speed of xxxxxxx light.
Thus, I refuse to

Recommend this here
Mind-blowing fragrance per se
Nor seeking it out

Since these results are
Unexpected, shall we say
And rather unique.

Instead, I merely
Leave one message of the dream
A point well taken:

That we should love truth
For its own sake, and not for
The power it grants.


(I know that's a "should", but substitute "can" if you want, since the original thought was without words, and is somewhat larger.)


It would be rude of me and violate the taught principle not to bring this back to perfumery and an actual review. This fragrance has a unique tension that shows not only stylistically, as a sort of old / new conflict, and as the usual good / bad thing, but there is even a really weird accord that feels solitary and unitary and whole like chypre - like a musical tone - yet it embodies the conflict. It was a "note" that felt both beautiful and unsettling at the same time - a slightly minor key. In many ways, this is the same beauty as certain real ouds, but by a different route, or changed in some ways, which may be extending the same oud facet to create a focal point with a different feeling.

I expect we will see some great fragrance derived from this on shelves - possibly in the luxe niche category, if it's not already out there. IFF never lets a great idea like this go to waste.

Not kidding about the dream. I love this hobby! I think being in a dreamy state can really open us up to the emotional and symbolic messages in fragrance, particularly with some starter cues from the perfumer (like poem titles, etc.) Brian C.'s review of the new Slumberhouse scent (6s&7s) was a great example.

Ok. Maybe time to go back to sleep. LOL.

Good night.
08th October, 2018
Stardate 20180620:

Hard to pin point the notes for me. Has some of the Timbuktu character. Papyrus, a fruit that I know but can't remember. Cypriol. A bit linear. Meh
25th June, 2018
I. Love. This. And will be so disappointed when my bottle empties and there will be nowhere to get more. I get a a sharp topnote that I think may be Cosmofruit, and also an smokiness that on me disappears, so perhaps the oud come out early even though it would be a base. It's unusual, it challenges my nose and immediately gratifies it, whether at first spray or later when I whiff the saffron and fruit.
08th June, 2018
Leads with honey and notes of saffron and ginger behind. Then I sensed a tart grape emerge, slightly sour. Became more plummy than grape and then became even more fruity. The fruit took over and had legs. This is supposed to have an Egyptian theme, but it didn't come across that way to me mainly because the fruit became overpowering.
17th May, 2018

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