Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Nelly Hachem-Ruiz (2018)
by IFF

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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Nelly Hachem-Ruiz information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

HouseIFF
PerfumerNelly Hachem-Ruiz
SupplierIFF

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Nelly Hachem-Ruiz

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

It's a warm, soft, peaceful moment. A cloud of vanilla milk envelops two connected bodies. The evocation is subtle, not to betray the delicacy of this instant. Invisible threads are woven in these shared molecules. They impart upon every single human child a marked preference for vanillin, close to one of the constituents of a mother's milk. To represent it, she chose white Australian sandalwood, and united its creamy tonality to powdery heliotrope and coconut lactones. The texture is balanced by touches of natural orris and vanilla. Then rising, like a scent booster, patchouli heart LMR, down-to-earth but not earthy, which further anchors the fragrance in a chypre trend, under Gaia, the earth mother. Basic Instinct, one could say. It's a primal moment, meaning inaugural, a game without a prize.

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Nelly Hachem-Ruiz fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Nelly Hachem-Ruiz

Nelly Hachem-Ruiz's interpretation of maternal milk is indeed a cozy presence of gourmand creaminess. A vanilla milk thickened by a delicate touch of creamy coconut, buttery yet starchy orris, and fluffy, almond-y heliotrope, while a subtle, comforting woody whisper from sandalwood counterbalances the potential greasy sensation. It sometimes even has a wheat-like nuance, reminding me of a bowl of cereal and milk at times.

A sharp, woody patchouli forms the backbone of the fragrance, to further undercut possible gourmand excess. And with time, it turns more earthy and medicinal, resulting occasional dried plum impression when combined with iris, fresh fig when the green aspect of patchouli crosses path with coconut-y creaminess and sandalwood, and cacao powder when holding hands with vanilla.

While these above nuances rotate among themselves, the overall impression of this fragrance remains a duet between creamy vanilla and earthy patchouli throughout its wearing. The sillage is pretty intimate, while the longevity can reach around 10 hours.

Overall, I quite enjoy this fragrance, especially its nuanced creamy vanilla milk part, homely, delicious, but without being overpowering like some gourmand milky fragrances can be, which fits the maternal milk inspiration perfectly. However, while I understand that the introduction of patchouli might be a means to counterbalance the gourmand elements, I had anticipated a certain musky, gently animalic element to bring home the human connection of maternal milk. As a result, I find it somehow a missed opportunity, even though it's well made and pretty refined as a modern gourmand fragrance.
13th November, 2018
Super 'Nilla Girl
Platinum blond of blond woods
And smilky ethers

Her powers include:
Sweeter than pure cane sugar
Coconuts thrown at

The lightness of light
White pepper sandalwood rays
O, Brother, Where Art

Them there muses of
White pepper sandalwood rays
With power mighty

To make all questions
Of creamy versus milky
Just kinda vanish

Down by the river
Of those Bath and Body Works
In Yupper Laccia?

Well I do reckon
I run into her kinfolk
Somewhere on the way

To frag house freedom
And I done had a good time
On my journey home.
13th October, 2018
Opens with a waxy coconut that has very milky qualities to it. If you have ever smelled the coconut aroma chemical that’s available through the perfumers apprentice website it is very obviously used here. As it begins to dry down the the vanilla really starts to come out as well as a subtle, earthy patchouli and some sandalwood. The dry down is a vanilla sandalwood that reminds me of Bath & Body Works: Warm Vanilla Sugar that happens to have some coconut in it.
13th September, 2018
Stardate 20180701:

Simple Iris vanilla. Nothing more.
01st July, 2018
A delicious gourmand that reminded me of a pina colada! It opened with a cozy coconut. Something floral in the background, which could have been heliotrope. It became creamy, as in more of a "cream note" rather than overall creamy texture balanced by a slightly musky, dirty patchouli. I got notes of nutmeg as well. A very friendly, likable scent.
17th May, 2018

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