Dawn (2018)
by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

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Dawn information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseEditions de Parfums Frederic Malle
PerfumerCarlos Benaim
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Dawn

Dawn is a shared / unisex perfume by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. The scent was launched in 2018 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Carlos Benaim

Dawn fragrance notes

Reviews of Dawn

My comment is based solely on a spritz in a shop -- I am unlikely to purchase it (given the price). Some reviewers talk of a shocking, animal oud note. I found it to be rather mild-mannered: definitely oud but not shocking. Dried into a light, pleasant woody-incense. The word I was thinking throughout was "subtle." Perhaps a large application would yield more depth and facets. Given the price, the shop was doling out single spritzes.
10th June, 2019
Frederic Malle Dawn opens with a quite fierce oud. It has the similarly animalic, sour and fermented aspects like the Indian oud in The Night. However, instead of a full-on barnyard stroll, it also clearly exhibits a rubbery facet that fits the profile of Laotian oud that I've encountered so far. As a result, Dawn is indeed lighter than The Night, but overall speaking it's still fairly animalic as an oud perfume.

However, like The Night, the authentic oud characteristics in Dawn retreat to the background rather quickly, and what's left is only a softly sweet and resinous woody backbone with flickers of rose petals. Moreover, it's gradually consumed by a standard olibanum incense and labdanum amber accord, and further dried out by a discreet touch of woody amber aromachemicals, to the extent that the dry down after about 4 hours is almost solely a desiccating incense than anything smelling remotely of oud.

I got a medium to soft sillage with Dawn and a longevity of at least 8 hours on my skin.

For me, The Night and Dawn share the same syndrome: a fairly authentic oud opening undermined by ubiquitous, uninspiring rose and amber/incense accords. If Dawn was released two years ago, I would have recommended it along with The Night as an example of animalic oud to sample, because even though they're fairly standard and unimaginative, at least they showcase the animalic aspects of oud pretty well and are put out by a well-established brand. However, during these two years, many artisanal and independent brands have come up with oud perfumes either more authentic, more innovative, more sophisticated or more luxurious, and with a more interesting price at that. Therefore, I would not particularly recommend Dawn before other more interesting oud perfumes.
02nd March, 2019
An exercise in the law of diminishing returns

Dawn is not an easy oud, but it's far more "typical" and unimaginative than The Night, the latter of which I recall as having a unexpectedly refined pungency, like a veil of that blue cheese note ouds can have. Dawn has more of an aggressive quality, even though it's not as difficult as The Night.

I was expecting Dawn to be more of a rosy oud, but it is heavily weighted toward oud. From the opening, oud's complexity takes the fore. It is at turns fragrant, leathery, woody, sweet. It flirts at the edges of animalism, but backs off quickly. There's a little bitterness that comes out in the dry down which pairs fantastically with the oud but for the most part, it's mostly a smooth, rich, and nicely filled-out ambery base.

The problem is the exorbitant price. I can think of other luxury ouds that cost far less and are in the same style. These tend to be thinner and more raspy but I can't justify spending 4-5 times more for this bump up in quality.
01st January, 2019
Dawn goes on with a shock of animalics, from both woody cumin and an especially fecal oud. But the star of the show is really a peppery sequoia forest smell with the animalics humming along underneath, while the oud’s other aspects (most notably a medicinal rubber tinge and those animalics) add character and a creamy richness. This is beautifully balanced and gorgeous if you like this sort of thing, though it seems to fall apart a bit given time, ending up as a mix of black pepper essence and a rather cheap-smelling aquatic rubbing alcohol basenote. In all, it's decent but paying $1500 for some black pepper oil and the same basenote as an Axe body spray feels obscene.
28th December, 2018 (last edited: 29th December, 2018)
It's really really good.
26th December, 2018

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