Dawn (2018)
by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

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Dawn information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseEditions de Parfums Frederic Malle
PerfumerCarlos Benaim
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Dawn

Dawn is a shared / unisex perfume by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. The scent was launched in 2018 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Carlos Benaim

Dawn fragrance notes

Reviews of Dawn

An exercise in the law of diminishing returns

Dawn is not an easy oud, but it's far more "typical" and unimaginative than The Night, the latter of which I recall as having a unexpectedly refined pungency, like a veil of that blue cheese note ouds can have. Dawn has more of an aggressive quality, even though it's not as difficult as The Night.

I was expecting Dawn to be more of a rosy oud, but it is heavily weighted toward oud. From the opening, oud's complexity takes the fore. It is at turns fragrant, leathery, woody, sweet. It flirts at the edges of animalism, but backs off quickly. There's a little bitterness that comes out in the dry down which pairs fantastically with the oud but for the most part, it's mostly a smooth, rich, and nicely filled-out ambery base.

The problem is the exorbitant price. I can think of other luxury ouds that cost far less and are in the same style. These tend to be thinner and more raspy but I can't justify spending 4-5 times more for this bump up in quality.
01st January, 2019
Dawn goes on with a shock of animalics, from both woody cumin and an especially fecal oud. But the star of the show is really a peppery sequoia forest smell with the animalics humming along underneath, while the oud’s other aspects (most notably a medicinal rubber tinge and those animalics) add character and a creamy richness. This is beautifully balanced and gorgeous if you like this sort of thing, though it seems to fall apart a bit given time, ending up as a mix of black pepper essence and a rather cheap-smelling aquatic rubbing alcohol basenote. In all, it's decent but paying $1500 for some black pepper oil and the same basenote as an Axe body spray feels obscene.
28th December, 2018 (last edited: 29th December, 2018)
It's really really good.
26th December, 2018

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