Vol de Nuit Extrait (1933)
by Guerlain

Vol de Nuit parfum (1984/94)

I had samples of both the vintage extrait and the modern EDT to compare side-by-side.

I think I might be trying to will myself to like this, just because it's admired by so many Basenoters who I in turn admire. But I'm not having to try very hard -- a citrussy green galbanum opening is a favorite of mine in almost any fragrance. I have to do a little forgiving with the narcissus, but it's not overwhelming enough to annoy me, and the iris is soft and quietly appealing. And that soft greenness carries right through to the classic custardy Guerlain ending.

The modern EDT, by comparison, is just sharper in every angle: much more moss, much less powder, and much more sweetness in the base. Again, not bad, but very lacking in that Guerlain "haze" that makes the parfum seem like you're smelling it through a silk veil.

I don't think I'm ever going to be a fanatic about Guerlain feminines -- that classic Guerlainade base is just not a selling point for me -- but if I were ever to splurge on a full bottle of one, the vintage Vol de Nuit might be the one. Not to mention that its square Deco bottle might be my favorite bottle in all of perfumery.