Perfume Directory

Mémoire d'une Odeur (2019)
by Gucci

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Mémoire d'une Odeur information

Year of Launch2019
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 11 votes)

People and companies

HouseGucci
PerfumerAlberto Morillas

About Mémoire d'une Odeur

Mémoire d'une Odeur is a shared / unisex perfume by Gucci. The scent was launched in 2019 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Alberto Morillas

Mémoire d'une Odeur fragrance notes

Reviews of Mémoire d'une Odeur

Gucci – Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019)

An inoffensive, but hardly significant, offering for this modern world of unenlightened perfumery. It has a powdery jasmine note, accompanied by a candied grapefruit peel vibe, that is perfectly pleasant, aimed at the young woman – I doubt a man could successfully pull this off – and as such, no better nor worse than much else available today.

It is very light, is worn close to the skin and dries down to a vanillic impression. Over all, it reminds me of the aroma found in pastry shops, those cheese Danish with apricot glaze in particular. A neutral rating from me, as I’d rather be munching one of those pastries than just smelling this.
08th October, 2019
I get a light soap mixed with tea vibe in this one. Not bad, but doesn't really catch my attention. Nice to have a sample, but would not pay for a full bottle. 6.5
19th September, 2019
This is a rather interesting recent release, one that bucks the mainstream trend toward stultifyingly banal berry/musk/confectionary-based pink juices designed for short-attention spanned people living in utter fear of smelling like their mothers.

If only it were more assertive and focused. It actually reminds me quite a bit of Cartier's L’Heure Perdue, with a similar wet cardboard/vinegar-ey opening. But whereas the Cartier remains sour and damp on my skin, the Gucci eventually opens up into a chorus of bright, citrus-dipped florals. Unfortunately, the very pretty tune plays more effectively on paper and fabric than on my skin, where it tends to hum along at too low and mushy a frequency—and too high a price for what it is—to tempt me into buying a bottle.
06th September, 2019
It's pleasant enough, and the chamomile here suggests a potentially interesting direction, this doesn't push anything far enough to be truly compelling.
01st September, 2019
If you like the smell of chamomile tea, or more explicitly chamomile itself, then this is the perfume for you. The sheer amount of conceptualization and marketing fluff surrounding Mémoire d'une Odeur (2019) is a bit off-putting, and the vintage-looking bottle a bit misleading, but overall this is an admirable effort. In a manner similar to Gucci Bloom Acqua di Fiore (2018), this tries to bring green verdant accords back into the mainstream, but unlike Acqua di Fiore, doesn't gobsmack with grassy notes (something I like but not a popular vibe in the 21st century for sure). Instead, Mémoire d'une Odeur leans on soft musks, a mineralic edge similar to Terre d'Hermès (2008) or Bottega Veneta Pour Homme (2013), and jasmine hedione to boldly "establish a new olfactive family" of the "aromatic mineralic", but I don't think we're getting an era-defining genre like the chypre out of this. Also, the bottle that inspired the packaging of Mémoire d'une Odeur is an early 90's repackage of Eau de Gucci (1982), their first scent. Quite a nice little trick, but I think it will backfire because retro style is a hard sell to Gucci's current market and vintage purists will call this out as smoke and mirrors. Casual fans may dig the kitsch appeal of the bottle, and the rather quiet scent will offend no one.

Mémoire d'une Odeur opens with that signature chamomile, which is probably the most unique and innovative thing about the scent. Alberto Morillas penned this, so don't expect anything too daring because he is inexorably and almost self-defeatingly bent on mass-appeal this late into his perfume career, particularly leaning on AI technology he helped develop as master perfumer at Firmenich. Past this opening, Mémoire d'une Odeur transforms into a greener muskier Mugler Cologne (2001), another scent Morillas worked on, and becomes quite soapy. The jasmine comes out to play, followed by a play-doh smell that I can only imagine is the mineral accord, after which some woody aromachemical impressions emerge (sandalwood and cedar says Gucci), ending in green-tinted white musk. Maybe there's a bit of Haitian vetiver in the mix, but all told, this comes across as a hybrid of the musk from Calvin Klein cK One (1994), which is yet another project Morillas was on, the aforementioned Mugler Cologne, and the novelty accords of chamomile and minerals. It's not bad and totally unisex, but also sort of listless, boring and too self-referential of a Morillas scent for enthusiasts to care. Wear time is brief like a cologne, with mild sillage to boot, so performance is questionable for the price. I'd also use this in spring/summer and only in the most casual of settings, or at night because chamomile is rather relaxing. I'd say this is a good before-bed scent in a similar vein to a lavender splash, but that's it.

Mémoire d'une Odeur is another mildly adventurous scent from the "new" Gucci under Alessandro Michele, but it seems there is diminishing returns on this adventurous spirit as the scents slowly become more staid and conventional down the line, while the stories behind each new release become taller and taller, showing evidence that accountants and shareholders are flexing their late-stage Capitalism muscle on the house and once again slowly steering them back to mass-appeal waters. It's a shame really, because Gucci Bloom (2016) and Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme (2017) were so darned interesting and promosing, but I guess "interesting" is mostly the provenance of higher-margin niche perfumes where taking risks is easier to justify, and "promising" now belonging to the realm of self-taught artisanal perfumers. Overall, fans of soapy, lightly-musky, and easy-going fragrances will enjoy this, but only as a tonic of sorts. Mémoire d'une Odeur is marketed unisex but I have a feeling this will appeal more to feminine tastes due to how low-key the scent profile is, since the 2010's is the second age of the powerhouse for most men. For the price, there are better eau de colognes or soapy spa-like scents out there, and I'm not terribly enamored with chamomile as a fragrance statement myself, but I'll give a nod to Gucci for doing something different, even if it's not for me. Test and see for yourself. Neutral.
30th August, 2019 (last edited: 31st August, 2019)
I was excited to try Mémoire d’une Odeur by Gucci—everything sounded promising, including the 'genderless' marketing and the vintage bottle. The first spray on the card was confusing. It was difficult to understand the amorphous blob of clean musk with play dough and mint. I finally decided that smelling it on paper was useless and tested it on my skin. Game changer. It took ten minutes for the fragrance to warm up and meld with my skin; but when it did, a soapy musk with a touch of white floral and a slightly sweet herbal note unfolded. Over time, the musk became slightly snuggly--my skin but better. It took me a few wears before I became comfortable identifying the chamomile note. The chamomile note is indeed a chameleon, twisting and winding its way through the floral musk. Sometimes the minty herbaceous character exchanges itself for a subtle fruity sweetness.

Summary: Expensive soap—the best kind; versatile.

Projection and sillage are low—this is a skin scent made for hugs.

Longevity is average with 6 to 7 hours.

The world needs more fragrances like Mémoire d’une Odeur

3.5/5
10th August, 2019

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