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Men's Skin care round-up

by Ali Nakhai, 01 April 2004

Everyone wants beautiful skin! It's not just a woman thang any longer. My cousin, who is a sports agent, goes on endlessly about how her NFL football players always ask for her to make them facial appointments. If you want to tell a 300lb lineman he's a poof, go ahead, I'm staying right behind my laptop!

Ok so lets say you're fine with the idea of buying something called a facial cleanser or a toner but which one do you buy??? There are so many products out there to choose from!

First, lets look at the venues. There are the drugstore varieties, the private labels, and the luxury brands.

The cheaper drugstore varieties aren't necessarily the worst choices. Most of the cleansers in the drugstore are a tad bit too harsh but a few like Alpha Hydrox foaming face wash do stand out. This gentle cleanser removes dirt and impurities without leaving ones face stripped or tight. The product contains alpha hydroxy acids as well but these don't do much in a face wash. Aveeno and Cetaphil also make wonderful face washes that clean yet don't overdry.

A good face wash should not contain any detergents (i.e. sodium lauryl sulfate) as their first or second ingredients. A softener such as panthenol is also an added benefit. If you want to splurge on a cleanser, Origins makes a nice clay cleanser that doubles as a face mask. As for the luxury brands, none of their cleansers warrants the added cost. Calvin Klein's toner/wash does provide the added benefit of toning which might make it worth the added $$$.

Toning...

Now on to the next step, toning. Toning? Men don't tone. Plain and simple, RIGHT? Nothing could be further from the truth. Men have been toning for centuries! Aftershave is essentially a low-alcohol toner. Toning exfoliates the top dermal layer of skin removing impurities that a cleanser might have not removed.

I found no formidable toners offered by any of the drugstore brands. They were either too harsh or too gentle. Kimberly Sayer offers an organic toner that effectively cleans the skin without overdrying. Anthony Logistics offer a heaven sent product for men in the form of an astringent after-shave. Anthony Logistics' green tonic can be used after shaving to soothe the skin (it contains aloe which heals abrasions).

Origins offers an odd concoction which is a toner with powder in it. Origins claims that their toner will both cleanse and control oil all day. While it isn't a poor toner it doesn't live up to all its claims either. Kiehl's makes a variety of toners as well but I found problems with all of them. The calendula toner, although mild and soothing, doesn't do much in the way of cleaning. Meanwhile the blue herbal astringent packs enough of a punch to melt off an Elephants hide. You might look like the Crypt Keeper if you use too much of that stuff!

Moisturize...

I know at this point the typical male is thinking "am I done? I want a beer already!" One more step! Moisturize! Many cosmetologists will tell you that everyone needs to use moisturizer everyday. According to dermatologists and modern science this is not the case. It has been proven that the level of moisture on one's face is not directly related to wrinkles. It has also been proven that the skin does not produce more oil if it is deprived of moisture.

So the theory that oily skin needs more moisture so it stops producing oil is about as accurate as saying that a world war needs to be initiated so as to bring world peace (not that any God fearing cowboy would say that). Purpose makes an adequate moisturizer with SPF 15 (sun protection is vital during the day). Alpha Hydrox makes a wonderful alpha hydroxy moisturizer that leaves the skin soft and clear of marks or imperfections. A caveat with Alpha Hydrox's though, they should not be worn during the day without sunscreen since they make the skin photo-sensitive. Origins makes a product called Matte Scientist; aside from the cute play on words this product aids in providing the skin with moisture and keeping the shine off for a good 3 - 7 hours (depending on how much of a oil slick you are).

Calvin Klein creates a similar product that is also quite effective. Art of Shaving also makes a good oil-controlling moisturizer with top ingredients like shea butter (for optimum moisturizing benefits) and kaolin (for maximum oil absorption). Jack Black makes what in my opinion is the best alpha - hydroxy moisturizer on the market. Jack Black guarantees finer skin with less marks in 4-6 weeks. My skin had a few scars which disappeared after using this for only 3 weeks.

Kimberly Sayer makes one of the better pure moisturizers. Her organic brew contains shea butter and goes on clear with no shine. Men have larger pores and generally oilier skin than women so most of us need moisturizers with oil controlling properties.

In this short article I haven't even come close to reviewing all the products out there. TOO MANY AND COUNTING!!! In the end it's YOUR SKIN. No dermatologist, cosmetologist, or Basenotes' writer can tell you what is right or wrong. Try things out and see what works best. I spoke about the products that I found to be the best but there are many amazing products like Kiehls, Jurlique, Thayers, Biotherm, Clinique, or Clarins that other people swear by. Have fun finding what works for you.

end of article
Ali Nakhai

About the author

Ali Nakhai is a writer and filmmaker who shares his time between New York and L.A.

All articles by Ali Nakhai



 
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