Whoof. So I've had a huge collection of Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs fragrance oils for a few years now, much of which has been wanting proper testing and reviews (and in some cases getting rid of). Finally I've found a forum in which people might actually care what I have to say about them, so in time I hope to review and comment on some of them here!
So far Operation BPAL has consisted of dredging out the spreadsheets I started to create to record my tasting notes, and giving myself
Eau de Magnolia opens on bright bergamot and effervescent aldehyde top notes that meld quickly and seamlessly into its central magnolia blossom reconstruction. I say “reconstruction” because the magnolia has the sort of hyper-realistic quality I associate with headspace technology, which I understand perfumer Carlos Benaim employed in composing this scent. The reconstruction itself may be complex, but the fragrance’s overall structure is extremely simple
Updated 6th July 2014 at 02:05 AM by Way Off Scenter
Genre: Woody Oriental
Apparently the world ends just in time for dessert. Never mind L’Etat Libre d’Orange’s characteristically loopy advertising copy; the most transgressive element at play here is a short-lived burnt popcorn top note. Otherwise, La Fin du Monde is a soft gourmand woody oriental with a powdery vanilla, amber, and iris drydown. Yes, there are a couple of oddball detours on the way: some charred woods and a bitter, inky note (the “gunpowder?”), but there’s
I can’t say I was looking forward to the Hermèssence foray into sandalwood with any degree of enthusiasm. The wan, anemic style Jean-Claude Elléna has adopted for this line doesn’t appeal to me to begin with, and sandalwood, whether Mysore or Australian, being an assertive note, seems ill adapted to such treatment. Nonetheless, I was curious as to how an unconventionally trim and transparent sandalwood fragrance might smell. Not much like sandalwood, it turns
Updated 1st July 2014 at 04:16 AM by Way Off Scenter
Citrus and lavender top notes suggest a conventional fougère is in the offing, but in the event, a plush, almondy heliotrope and anise accord wells up in place of the expected coumarin, and 1725 plays out like a batch of Après l’Ondée that stumbled through a lavender patch and came out smelling more assertive and androgynous for the trouble. The heliotrope and anise on a powdery foundation bring to mind Boucheron’s elegant Jaïpur Homme, but 1725 is a leaner,
Updated 26th June 2014 at 04:41 AM by Way Off Scenter
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