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  1. Guerlain Week, Day 5: Shalimar, EDC Impériale, plus 5 more

    by , 26th July 2008 at 11:25 PM (De Fragrante Delectatio)
    I’m feeling laconic today, and testing these mid-to-late 20th-century Guerlains is tiresome. Tomorrow is going to be L’Heure Bleue and Vol de Nuit, just because I need to love again.

    Chamade (EDT) – Unless I’m mistaken, it’s another rose chypre. It smells rather like Nahéma, except less powdery. Would make a decent Rose Barbare substitute for the budget-conscious.

    [Sidebar: Could someone please explain to me why bloggers ...

    Updated 21st November 2009 at 05:11 AM by kopah

    Categories
    Guerlain , Reviews
  2. Guerlain Week, Day 4: Attrape-Coeur and Plus Que Jamais

    by , 25th July 2008 at 06:05 PM (De Fragrante Delectatio)
    Attrape-Coeur – What is it about sandalwood that leaves me cold? Okay, fine, it’s nice. It’s a perfectly decent, harmless note (except in Lutens’ hands, where it turns into some kind of Indian-cooking monstrosity). But my reaction to Attrape-Coeur is the same as to Chanel’s Bois des Îles (EDT): meh. Maybe if I were to smell Bois des Îles in vintage parfum (hint hint), I could appreciate the beauty of real, natural Indian sandalwood that everybody always raves about. As it is, I’m not going to tax ...

    Updated 21st November 2009 at 05:11 AM by kopah

    Categories
    Guerlain , Reviews
  3. Guerlain Week, Day 3: Bois d’Arménie and Rose Barbare

    by , 24th July 2008 at 09:25 PM (De Fragrante Delectatio)
    If L’Art et la Matière had a theme song, it would be “Don’t Stand So Close to Me” by The Police, just because of the title alone. These perfumes make me very aware of how close to my skin I tend to position my nose when sampling: at that distance, they skew horribly out of balance. But when I leave them on my wrists and get back to typing, the sillage that wafts up gives a true impression. One thing’s for sure: the misgivings I expressed about the line in yesterday’s entry have been assuaged. ...

    Updated 21st November 2009 at 05:11 AM by kopah

    Categories
    Guerlain , Reviews
  4. Guerlain Week, Day 2: Angélique Noire and Cuir Beluga

    by , 23rd July 2008 at 06:29 PM (De Fragrante Delectatio)
    In the wake of the court ruling against eBay in France, today I noticed that all Guerlain perfume bottles have been removed from the ebay.fr site. Only ads and collectibles remain.

    Angélique Noire – It seems quite rich and vanillic from the vial, but on skin it’s surprisingly floral/fruity. It’s an overripe, tropical fruitiness though (pineapple?), almost boozy, like fruit liqueur. After about an hour, it starts to take on a more alcoholic/chemical aspect, like fruit-scented hair ...

    Updated 21st November 2009 at 05:11 AM by kopah

    Categories
    Guerlain , Reviews
  5. Guerlain Week, Day 1: Habit Rouge and Derby

    by , 22nd July 2008 at 05:30 PM (De Fragrante Delectatio)
    I'm embarking on a testing journey, to better familiarize myself with this house's oeuvre. I know, it's Tuesday, and I'm a day late. To be fair, I did wear L'Heure Bleue on Sunday night, but I wasn't thinking about it all that hard. I'll examine it later on. But I'm starting off today with two offerings for men.

    Habit Rouge (EDT) - Any label that's released a perfume based on Turkish Delight should be ashamed: Guerlain beat them all to it, and did it better, without even trying. With ...

    Updated 21st November 2009 at 05:12 AM by kopah

    Categories
    Guerlain , Reviews



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