How important is the "nose" to the quality of a fragrance? What I mean by this is the relative importance of design talent versus ingredient quality? At Basenotes, clearly both are revered. Some reviews refer to the genius of jean-Claude Ellena. Others stress the importance of High-quality, expensive ingredients.
How important is each? For instance, if you took Ellena and gave him the ingredient costs of a Yacht Man fragrance as a constraint, could he still produce a masterpiece?
Having read many reviews of older fragrances that have been reformulated, a common refrain one hears is that the vintage version was superior. A number of reasons are offered for this ranging from restrictions on ingredients to cost-saving measures on the part of the manufacturer. No doubt these are valid in some cases.
But I cannot help wondering whether there is not something else at work, particularly in side-by-side comparisons of new vs vintage--time. Even if stored under perfect
Hmmmmm. So: Estee Lauder Pleasures. I loved this stuff back in the 90s; it has an assertive, in-your-face niceness about it that just says "I am absolutely not in the mood to be (a) a sex object or (b) in any way tolerant towards your bullshit today". It's the middle-class mum whose face the school receptionist dreads seeing, because she knows very well it won't go away until little Jack and Olivia have the school canteen completely rearranged to fulfil their gluten-free extra virgin olive
Over the past 3-4 years, my project of sampling the world of cheap colognes for quality has resulted in finding several that are nearly identical to popular and more expensive fragrances. I thought I might share some of these findings with the BN community:
Yacht Man Metal is identical to Chanel Allure Homme Sport
Thallium Sport is identical to Happy by Clinique
AB Spirit Millionaire is very similar to Azzaro 1 Million (no surprise there)
Lomani is very similar to Drakkar
Armani Prive - Ambre Soie
Goes on lush, mellow and spicy; almost gourmand. Reminds me distinctly of BPAL's foody Christmas scents - I think the anise and patchouli are contributing to that. Lovely for its opening, certainly. Other reviewers complain about longevity but I'm pretty sure it'll beat out a perfume oil! Added to the wish list not for a full bottle but for a good-sized sample, this is definitely a comfort zone fragrance for me, and if comments about its subtle complexity
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