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  1. Fragrance Review: Serge Lutens De Profundis


    Genre: Floral Oriental

    The photorealistic chrysanthemum top note is unique in my experience, and truly arresting. Chrysanthemum is an autumnal, melancholy note, with associations of turning leaves and early frosts. As De Profundis matures on the skin, the evocative chrysanthemum gains support from an accord of liturgical incense, carnation, and woody violet. Its all rather moody, despite the floral content, and the composition maintains a brooding, bittersweet air
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    Updated 19th July 2014 at 07:23 PM by Way Off Scenter

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  2. Fragrance Review: L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville l'Aube

    Genre: Floral

    Seville lAubes romantic backstory obscures the fact that it is basically a straightforward if high quality orange blossom soliflore. Its distinguishing characteristic is a peculiar savory, almost saline, quality to its orange blossom note. (A trait it shares with Vero Kerns equally lovely Rubj.) The orange blossom is sweetened with benzoin and enriched by a very subtle incense note, but the composition feels otherwise direct and simple. The mood is
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  3. Fragrance Review: Parfum d'Empire Corsica Furiosa


    Genre: Green

    Aggressively bitter herbaceous top notes of galbanum and tomato leaf are tempered by a healthy splash of sweet citrus, but the overall effect is astringent and pleasantly medicinal. Corsica Furiosas heart maintains the bracing green olfactory impression, even as lentiscus (mastic bush), a huge fresh hay note, and a dab of honey smooth out and slightly sweeten the profile. The fragrance is intensely evocative it is difficult to wear Corsica Furiosa without
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    Updated 19th July 2014 at 04:08 AM by Way Off Scenter

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  4. Fragrance Review: Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin

    Genre: Oriental

    A crisp citrus top note doesnt get much airtime before its enveloped in Musc Tonkins unctuous, sweet amber and musk accord. The composition is exceptionally well-blended, such that individual components are not easily identified. Nonetheless, I detect labdanum and benzoin in the amber, some indolic jasmine, and a fruity rose alongside the prevailing musk. The whole thing is heady, dense, and viscous, with a penetrating, at times near-fecal, animalic tang
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  5. Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis Forte

    Genre: Floral

    A juicy bergamot top note introduces what is essentially a floral eau de Cologne variant, with a core of citrus notes, clean jasmine, and dry rose. If this is forte I have to wonder at how the plain paper wrapper version plays, since this is still a very mild and understated fragrance. Longevity is pretty impressive for a fragrance of this buoyant, transparent style; the citrus and floral core holds together for a good three or four hours before yielding to
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