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  1. Masculine Fragrances for Men

    Iíve read a few online discussions about gender and perfume recently. I love to see this because nowhere does gender seem more arbitrary than in perfumery. Now I love perfume, and consider it an art-form, but I don't expected it to move the dial on gender. Perfume is more likely to fall in line with your beliefs than to change them. For most men, this will mean wearing fragrances marketed to men. For a number of reasons, women have a certain stylistic access to gender borrowing that allows them ...
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  2. Flanker Strategies

    Iíve said it before: as a rule, flankers suck. It's not hard to understand how and why they suck. The goal is sales and the impetus is marketing . When goals are reiteration and demographic targeting, and the risk is straying too far from the known, creativity will be difficult to pin down. How is it then that some succeed?

    A few strategies and how they play out​:

    Let's start at the bottom of the barrel with the unadulterated flanker, the true spirit of the practice: ...
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  3. Gender, Pack and the Aquatic Fragrance

    I find the discussion of gender and perfume fascinating but frustrating. However well-considered an understanding or a finding might be, itís hard to consider in terms of evidence. Gender is as basic as language, but where is it? Where do you find gender? Fragrance is easy to Ďplaceí, but how do you discuss it? What does it mean?

    It's possible to make truthful generalities about groups of people, but I am cautious about the size of the brushstrokes. I especially love generalizing ...
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  4. Diorellish, or The Perfume Formerly Known as Diorella

    Diorellish (the the current reformulation of Diorella) smells OK. On first impression, it smells a bit like Diorella, the lateral borders being in about the same places, but the depth isn't there. Graph Diorellish in two dimensions and the X-axis appears mostly intact; the general shape of Diorella can be seen. But on the Y-axis, the lack of depth would distinguish it instantly from the actual Edmond Roudnitska classic.

    This sort of reformulation, which deliberatly avoids nuance ...
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  5. Mario Valentino Ocean Rain (1990) or, On Diorissimo: Edmond Roudnitska's Manifesto

    Roudnitska is known for his perfumes, for his influence on the state of the art of perfumery and, more than many other noses, for his discussion of the art of perfumery. I donít know all his work. Iím not an historian and there has been very little critical analysis of perfumery as an art form. There isnít much to draw on for those who would like to know more. The eternal proviso that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing comes to mind. Still, Iíd like to write about Ocean Rain.
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000