Green citrus top notes establish a brisk, refreshing olfactory presence as they usher in a central movement of elemi, a polite oudh reconstruction, amber, and iris. The composition smells a good deal less syrupy and opaque than its masculine counterpart, its iris less powdery and dense. Indeed, with its crisp vetiver foundation, Amyris Femme is a much more “rugged” fragrance than Amyris Homme, which features borderline cloying gourmand cocoa and coffee notes.
Updated 16th July 2014 at 01:55 AM by Way Off Scenter
A bracing, herbaceous, yet deeply earthy patchouli resting upon a mossy-leathery chypre foundation. If you love patchouli but don’t want to smell like the local head shop, this and Nicolaï’s Patchouli Intense are probably two of your best bets. Outstanding quality and a beguiling animalic chypre drydown.
For more reviews of Noir Patchouli, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.
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Updated 15th July 2014 at 04:13 PM by Way Off Scenter
Genre: Woody Oriental
This is by a narrow margin my favorite of Francis Kurkdjian’s three “Oud Mood” fragrances. Medicinal oudh jumps out from the very start, supported mostly by warm, animalic labdanum. The composition sounds simple, but the effect is intricate and nuanced, thanks to the inherent complexity of the two central notes. Though the ingredient is not mentioned in the pyramid, the oudh accord here has the kind of crackling, smoky aspect I have come to associate
Oud Silk Mood offers what has by now become a familiar combination of rose and oudh. Variants on this structure have been offered in numerous Montale releases, and in the superb Amouage Homage Attar, to name but a few. In this regard, Silk Mood is perhaps the most conventional of the three Kurkdjian “Oud Mood” fragrances. It is certainly less dry, less smoky, and less animalic than either of its two siblings. While it smells richer, softer, and more luxurious
Both Oud Velvet Mood and its fraternal twin Oud Cashmere Mood emphasize the smoky, medicinal aspects of the oudh accord. Cashmere Mood, with its labdanum and vanilla, is the marginally sweeter and warmer of the two, while Velvet Mood, name notwithstanding, offers a drier and more angular olfactory profile, thanks largely to the bitter edge on its saffron top note. Again like its twin, this scent consists almost entirely of base note materials, so that once the
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