“Etrog” is Hebrew for citron, a thick-skinned citrus fruit that looks like a big, warty lemon and smells divine. Citron finds outstanding expression in Guerlain’s Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat, which handily captures the lush, almost floral aroma of fresh citron rind. Arquiste’s L’Etrog is considerably less successful to my nose, settling for a generic sweet citrus top note over a foundation of soft woods. L’Etrog grows conspicuously soapy over time, as a clean
Nutmeg and pepper top notes are brisk, bordering on abrasive, but they soon give way to a rich, smoky, animalic leather and labdanum accord that’s at once suave and vaguely menacing. As Cuir Garamante develops I catch flashes of cypriol and birch tar (the smoke), dry rose, and an oudh reconstruction*, but the central structure is mostly seamless. By the two hour mark, the leather has receded, leaving a labdanum-rich amber accord, some vaguely defined woods,
Genre: Fruity Floral
A pretty floral top note is quickly overtaken by a tide of canned peaches. I once synthesized the ester used in peach flavorings in an organic chemistry lab, and it smelled a lot like this. Sadly, the peach note is insufficiently supported by any contrasting materials, and the result is both simplistic and incomplete.
After a long, long wait, an anemic cassis and rose accord arrives and does what it can to flesh out the olfactory structure,
'Lady Godiva' by John Collier, 1897
Riding in protest yet provocative; assertive,
ever the female in control.
A woman takes the reigns donning
the smoothest, richest leather.
Daunting; the dark forest awaits.
Sultry sandalwood, labdanum, nutmeg
and saffron envelope the velvet robes in
Updated 22nd June 2014 at 11:32 PM by kumquat
Genre: Floral Oriental
La Fille de Berlin is a rose-centered composition, and with two outstanding rose fragrances in his portfolio already, one might wonder what Serge Lutens needed with a third. Sa Majesté la Rose is a bright, photorealistic portrait of a damask rose, and Rose de Nuit is a sultry rose chypre that reflects classics like Beautiful and Knowing through a modernist mirror. La Fille de Berlin occupies a comfortable middle ground between the two. It is both sweeter
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