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  1. Richard Lüscher Britos Terroir Perfumes, 2013 (part 1)

    Classical perfumery is wounded. The IFRA barbarians are at the gate. The chypre has left the building, orientals have deflated into gourmands, leather is now ‘notes of suede’ and flowers have lost their bite but gained a sweet-tooth. Flankers of flankers of perfumes that were originally designed to be flankable in the first place are released weekly. Niche has been around long enough to have been reformulated and re-reformulated and therefore diminished. Designer lines copy niche strategies ...
  2. Against Notes

    Notes describe qualities of a fragrance. They offer a side door into the discussion of perfume with points of comparison. If you have smelled a lemon, then a "lemon" note will make sense to you. Notes are used like similes. A “rose” note smells like rose. Bvlgari Black smells like rubber. (I exclude imagistic description couched as notes, typically in product description, eg. notes of burly arctic breeze or forlorn longing.)

    Parfumo, Fragrantica, Basenotes, MakeupAlley… ...
  3. wtf is niche anyway?

    By the late 70s, perfume came from large corporate brands (eg. Estée Lauder, Coty), commercial fashion brands (eg. Halston, Pierre Cardin, Calvin Klein) and the old guard like Caron and Guerlain. The common thread is that investors saw perfume as a cash cow and designer-celebrity culture was a cheap ticket to the show. The perfumer was in the closet, the consumer rabidly craved identifiability in branding and the ‘coarsening of culture’ argument had been laughed into submission. Culturally we ...
  4. Abarcrombie and fitch perfumes tv commercials?

    what about ads in journals and billbords?
    anyone noticed?
  5. Random Sense: Make the most of these scents in no order of preference

    These are random samples pulled from my collection. They are not based on season, only chosen randomly to remind us of the beauty that awaits if we choose to indulge ourselves.
    Draw 1: Dior Aqua Fahrenheit
    Draw 2: Original Penguin Rocks
    Draw 3: Jil Sander Man
    Draw 4: YSL Pour Homme
    Draw 5: Cartier Zeste de Soleil
    Draw 6: Tom Ford Noir de Noir
    Draw 7: Miller Harris Vetiver Bourbon
    Draw 8: Guerlain Homme L'eau Boisee
    Draw 9: John Varvatos ...
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