Citrus and lavender top notes suggest a conventional fougère is in the offing, but in the event, a plush, almondy heliotrope and anise accord wells up in place of the expected coumarin, and 1725 plays out like a batch of Après l’Ondée that stumbled through a lavender patch and came out smelling more assertive and androgynous for the trouble. The heliotrope and anise on a powdery foundation bring to mind Boucheron’s elegant Jaïpur Homme, but 1725 is a leaner,
Updated 26th June 2014 at 03:41 AM by Way Off Scenter
“Etrog” is Hebrew for citron, a thick-skinned citrus fruit that looks like a big, warty lemon and smells divine. Citron finds outstanding expression in Guerlain’s Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat, which handily captures the lush, almost floral aroma of fresh citron rind. Arquiste’s L’Etrog is considerably less successful to my nose, settling for a generic sweet citrus top note over a foundation of soft woods. L’Etrog grows conspicuously soapy over time, as a clean
Nutmeg and pepper top notes are brisk, bordering on abrasive, but they soon give way to a rich, smoky, animalic leather and labdanum accord that’s at once suave and vaguely menacing. As Cuir Garamante develops I catch flashes of cypriol and birch tar (the smoke), dry rose, and an oudh reconstruction*, but the central structure is mostly seamless. By the two hour mark, the leather has receded, leaving a labdanum-rich amber accord, some vaguely defined woods,
Genre: Fruity Floral
A pretty floral top note is quickly overtaken by a tide of canned peaches. I once synthesized the ester used in peach flavorings in an organic chemistry lab, and it smelled a lot like this. Sadly, the peach note is insufficiently supported by any contrasting materials, and the result is both simplistic and incomplete.
After a long, long wait, an anemic cassis and rose accord arrives and does what it can to flesh out the olfactory structure,
'Lady Godiva' by John Collier, 1897
Riding in protest yet provocative; assertive,
ever the female in control.
A woman takes the reigns donning
the smoothest, richest leather.
Daunting; the dark forest awaits.
Sultry sandalwood, labdanum, nutmeg
and saffron envelope the velvet robes in
Updated 22nd June 2014 at 10:32 PM by kumquat
Basenotes is an online guide to perfume and fragrance, featuring news, a database of fragrances, perfume glossary, fragrance forums, user reviews and more.