View RSS Feed

All Blog Entries

  1. Flanker Strategies

    I’ve said it before: as a rule, flankers suck. It's not hard to understand how and why they suck. The goal is sales and the impetus is marketing . When goals are reiteration and demographic targeting, and the risk is straying too far from the known, creativity will be difficult to pin down. How is it then that some succeed?

    A few strategies and how they play out​:

    Let's start at the bottom of the barrel with the unadulterated flanker, the true spirit of the practice: ...
    Categories
    Uncategorized
  2. Gender, Pack and the Aquatic Fragrance

    I find the discussion of gender and perfume fascinating but frustrating. However well-considered an understanding or a finding might be, it’s hard to consider in terms of evidence. Gender is as basic as language, but where is it? Where do you find gender? Fragrance is easy to ‘place’, but how do you discuss it? What does it mean?

    It's possible to make truthful generalities about groups of people, but I am cautious about the size of the brushstrokes. I especially love generalizing ...
    Categories
    Uncategorized
  3. Diorellish, or The Perfume Formerly Known as Diorella

    Diorellish (the the current reformulation of Diorella) smells OK. On first impression, it smells a bit like Diorella, the lateral borders being in about the same places, but the depth isn't there. Graph Diorellish in two dimensions and the X-axis appears mostly intact; the general shape of Diorella can be seen. But on the Y-axis, the lack of depth would distinguish it instantly from the actual Edmond Roudnitska classic.

    This sort of reformulation, which deliberatly avoids nuance ...
    Categories
    Uncategorized
  4. Mario Valentino Ocean Rain (1990) or, On Diorissimo: Edmond Roudnitska's Manifesto

    Roudnitska is known for his perfumes, for his influence on the state of the art of perfumery and, more than many other noses, for his discussion of the art of perfumery. I don’t know all his work. I’m not an historian and there has been very little critical analysis of perfumery as an art form. There isn’t much to draw on for those who would like to know more. The eternal proviso that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing comes to mind. Still, I’d like to write about Ocean Rain.
    ...
    Categories
    Uncategorized
  5. The Gourmand Apocalypse

    The ‘foodie‘ focus of modern perfume started in the late 19th century, coincidentally at the start of chemically synthetic perfumery. We tend to highlight the abstract perfumes from this era, such as the fougère, the chypre and the oriental. The fougère has long been defined by its lack of food scent and proudly accepts “soapy” jibes. But the chypre contains citrus, albeit the rarely eaten bergamot orange, in it's basic composition. More than the fougère, the chypre at least leans toward the ...
    Categories
    Uncategorized
Page 48 of 610 FirstFirst ... 38 46 47 48 49 50 58 98 148 548 ... LastLast



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000