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  1. Fragrance Review: Aesop Marrakech

    Genre: Oriental

    No top notes to speak of here – Marrakech launches straight into its central accord of spices and resins, and that’s pretty much where it stays for as long as it lasts. Cardamom and clove are both prominent at Marrakech’s heart, and the tart, lemony aspect of the cardamom note is the only relief offered in what is otherwise a uniformly dense, opaque composition. The fragrance is potent, tenacious, and projects conspicuously, so you won’t need much of it
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  2. Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Femme

    Genre: Woods

    Green citrus top notes establish a brisk, refreshing olfactory presence as they usher in a central movement of elemi, a polite oudh reconstruction, amber, and iris. The composition smells a good deal less syrupy and opaque than its masculine counterpart, its iris less powdery and dense. Indeed, with its crisp vetiver foundation, Amyris Femme is a much more “rugged” fragrance than Amyris Homme, which features borderline cloying gourmand cocoa and coffee notes.
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    Updated 16th July 2014 at 01:55 AM by Way Off Scenter

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  3. Fragrance Review: Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli

    Genre: Chypre

    A bracing, herbaceous, yet deeply earthy patchouli resting upon a mossy-leathery chypre foundation. If you love patchouli but don’t want to smell like the local head shop, this and Nicolaï’s Patchouli Intense are probably two of your best bets. Outstanding quality and a beguiling animalic chypre drydown.

    For more reviews of Noir Patchouli, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.

    Click here for more reviews by Way Off Scenter.

    Updated 15th July 2014 at 04:13 PM by Way Off Scenter

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  4. Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Cashmere Mood

    Genre: Woody Oriental

    This is by a narrow margin my favorite of Francis Kurkdjian’s three “Oud Mood” fragrances. Medicinal oudh jumps out from the very start, supported mostly by warm, animalic labdanum. The composition sounds simple, but the effect is intricate and nuanced, thanks to the inherent complexity of the two central notes. Though the ingredient is not mentioned in the pyramid, the oudh accord here has the kind of crackling, smoky aspect I have come to associate
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  5. Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Silk Mood

    Genre: Floral

    Oud Silk Mood offers what has by now become a familiar combination of rose and oudh. Variants on this structure have been offered in numerous Montale releases, and in the superb Amouage Homage Attar, to name but a few. In this regard, Silk Mood is perhaps the most conventional of the three Kurkdjian “Oud Mood” fragrances. It is certainly less dry, less smoky, and less animalic than either of its two siblings. While it smells richer, softer, and more luxurious
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