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  1. Andy Farms Voltaire's Garden and Everything's Coming Up Roses, or, The Tauer Roses.

    Perfumers are often associated with a particular genre or style. Instead Tauer takes a flower and makes it his focus. He uses it to find his way through and around a number of identifiable genres. He uses rose to play with the notion of what a "note" is.

    With each of the perfumes, we're questioned. Is rose a material? Is rose a note? A set of notes? Is the rose of Noontide Petals the same rose you smell in PHI? The question isn’t, are the rose oils in the various ...
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  2. The Limits of the Fragrance Wheel

    For visual diagrams, we have traditionally relied on two dimensional forms. Diagrams aren't direct visual translations, but representations, devices. They are models, and however rudimentary, they are intellectual constructs. They have rules and, like all description, they seek to reduce an object or restrict a concept to a set of identifiers. Diagrams can’t quite be said to have an intention, but by the nature of their rules, they have implicit goals.

    Much of the trouble with ...
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  3. Bernard Chant and the Cabochard Family Tree

    The start: Grès Cabochard, 1959.

    Expectation works against Grès Cabochard, poor dear. Many compare it in its current form to a vintage model. I’ve never smelled vintage Cabochard, so that expectation isn’t an issue. Cabochard is the reference leather chypre of the mid-20th century. It was popular, critically acclaimed and directly influenced the decades of chypres that followed it.

    My expectation, and I’ll own it, comes from Cabochard’s family resemblance to Aramis ...
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  4. Richard Lüscher Britos Terroir Perfumes, 2013 (part 2)

    44°N 03°E (lavender)

    How did Richard Lüscher Britos match the botanical material to the perfumer? Did they draw names from a hat? Did the perfumers choose their key material? If Andy Tauer chose lavender, he's a brave man. It is likely the best known botanical scent in the world after the rose and the lemon. It suggest hygiene, cuisine, cleaning products, ancient history and the new age. Tauer has been there before. His Reverie au Jardin played lavender from top to bottom, demonstrating ...
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  5. Richard Lüscher Britos Terroir Perfumes, 2013 (part 1)

    Classical perfumery is wounded. The IFRA barbarians are at the gate. The chypre has left the building, orientals have deflated into gourmands, leather is now ‘notes of suede’ and flowers have lost their bite but gained a sweet-tooth. Flankers of flankers of perfumes that were originally designed to be flankable in the first place are released weekly. Niche has been around long enough to have been reformulated and re-reformulated and therefore diminished. Designer lines copy niche strategies ...
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