The convincing gardenia top note alone is almost worth the price of admission; I only wish I enjoyed everything that follows half as much. The gardenia is evanescent and subsides within a few minutes on the skin. What remains is a loud, sour vetiver, citrus, and generic green floral accord, anchored by an especially abrasive woody aromachemical. This last is probably included to make the fragrance smell “masculine,” but instead grates on my sensibilities like
Immortelle (Helichrysum, everlasting flower,) is a challenging fragrance component. Some describe it as smelling of curry, some (including perfume critic Luca Turin,) say it smells of fenugreek. To me it smells inexplicably of smoked bacon and maple syrup. In any case, when used in more than homeopathic doses, immortelle tends to jump out of any composition, grab you firmly by the nose hairs, and hold on until you surrender. Perfumers often deal with it by
Earth Phoenix is one of BPAL's sixth anniversary range of phoenix-themed scents; I have another of them, Water Phoenix, which I'll also be reviewing on here soon. You're probably getting the idea by now that I had rather a phase of being a limited edition hunter with BPAL- for several years running I used to blow every penny of my Christmas money on a ridiculously large order with them (this was before US customs cracked down on marking items as gifts as a dodge to reduce recipients' customs charges,
Updated 7th July 2014 at 01:46 AM by philistine
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier released Iris Bleu Gris in 1988, and Divine introduced the iris-based L’Homme de Coeur in 2002, yet Dior Homme was considered something of a breakthrough when it appeared in 2005: the first mainstream designer iris scent marketed to men. I’ve always wanted to like Dior Homme more than I do, but it’s never won the place in my heart that its two great predecessors occupy. It’s not a matter of niche snobbery, but rather a particular
Updated 6th July 2014 at 03:42 AM by Way Off Scenter
Homme Libre (only sniffed on paper, may retest on skin): A very polite sort of freedom. As one reviewer on the fragrance page suggested it's a holiday fragrance; no passionate emancipation here, just a nice week off from your smart-shirt job "dine in tine". Not by any means unpleasant but reads as very safe to me.
(But then so do about 90% of mainstream mens' fragrances, really; this is the same problem I have with designer clothes, it's about branding. I'm not Yves Saint
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