Genre: Fruity Floral
A pretty floral top note is quickly overtaken by a tide of canned peaches. I once synthesized the ester used in peach flavorings in an organic chemistry lab, and it smelled a lot like this. Sadly, the peach note is insufficiently supported by any contrasting materials, and the result is both simplistic and incomplete.
After a long, long wait, an anemic cassis and rose accord arrives and does what it can to flesh out the olfactory structure,
'Lady Godiva' by John Collier, 1897
Riding in protest yet provocative; assertive,
ever the female in control.
A woman takes the reigns donning
the smoothest, richest leather.
Daunting; the dark forest awaits.
Sultry sandalwood, labdanum, nutmeg
and saffron envelope the velvet robes in
Updated 22nd June 2014 at 10:32 PM by kumquat
Genre: Floral Oriental
La Fille de Berlin is a rose-centered composition, and with two outstanding rose fragrances in his portfolio already, one might wonder what Serge Lutens needed with a third. Sa Majesté la Rose is a bright, photorealistic portrait of a damask rose, and Rose de Nuit is a sultry rose chypre that reflects classics like Beautiful and Knowing through a modernist mirror. La Fille de Berlin occupies a comfortable middle ground between the two. It is both sweeter
L'Eau Froide's mentholated frankincense top note is an interesting play on the name ("Cold Water") and on the "chilly" facet of the incense note. Unfortunately, the construct collapses almost immediately into a very ordinary mild white musk drydown that feels more like laundry detergent than a personal fragrance. The clever incense-on-ice idea is executed with far greater flair and conviction in Comme des Garçons' excellent Zagorsk. L'Eau
Clair de Musc
Genre: Floral Oriental
This light, cheerful floral musk composition is about as far away as Sheldrake and Lutens could get from the animalic Muscs Koublaï Khan and still have the word “musc” on the label. If your idea of a musk fragrance is enveloping decadence and indulgent sensuality, this is not for you. If, on the other hand, your ideal musk smells of freshly-scrubbed skin and mild roses, you’re going to like Clair de Musc. Me, I’m more
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