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  1. Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Homme

    Genre: Woody Oriental

    The idea of amyris (West Indian sandalwood, elemi,) and iris is an interesting one, but the execution here is simply too unrelievedly sweet and foody for me to enjoy. Bright citrus top notes usher in the central elemi and iris accord, which is heavily sweetened with cocoa, coconut, and coffee. The use of balsamic wood and coffee brings to mind Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s masterful Santal Noble, but that scent is both drier and far less “edible” smelling
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    Updated 13th July 2014 at 08:55 PM by Way Off Scenter

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  2. Fragrance Review: Amouage Journey Woman

    Genre: Oriental

    As with the Interlude and Memoir scents, Journey Woman is the more interesting and original of the Journey pair. Journey Man is a perfectly pleasant, well-made, and ultimately very conservative sort of scent. Journey Woman is an altogether different kind of animal. “Animal” being the operative term. Indeed, Journey Woman’s sweet, intensely animalic top notes are real wake-up call! They announce from the start that this is not necessarily going to be
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    Updated 19th July 2014 at 05:57 PM by Way Off Scenter

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  3. Fragrance Review: Amouage Journey Man

    Genre: Fougère

    Some nifty Sichuan peppercorn and neroli top notes yield to a smoky, boozy, and rather nostalgic accord of pipe tobacco, coumarin, and cypriol (papyrus), with a very warm, woody vibe. (What perfume critic Luca Turin might refer to as a "cigar box" fragrance.) In mood, if not content, Journey Man’s central stage brings to mind both Shiseido’s late, lamented Basala and the big tobacco fougères of the 1970s and 1980s – fragrances like Équipage, Lauder
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    Updated 13th July 2014 at 04:22 AM by Way Off Scenter

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  4. Fragrance Review: Ann Gerard Perle de Mousse

    Genre: Green Floral

    This is nice work in an uncharacteristic style (no incense, no leather, no oriental trappings,) from Bertrand Duchaufour. Intense galbanum and lentiscus top notes usher in a central accord of aldehydic green muguet and white flowers over a plush white musk foundation. The contrast between the brisk, effervescent green floral accord and the soft, caressing musk energizes Perle de Mousse like the mainspring of a mechanical watch. The nose waits in suspense
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    Updated 12th July 2014 at 09:57 PM by Way Off Scenter

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  5. Fragrance Review: Arquiste Anima Dulcis

    Genre: Woody Oriental

    They got the “dulcis” right; the “soul” I’m not so sure about.

    By all rights, I probably shouldn’t review Anima Dulcis. It’s simply not the kind of fragrance I’m liable to enjoy, even if done well. Nonetheless, I’ve sampled it, and I have some thoughts, so I will assume the dissenter’s position and share my experience.

    Anima Dulcis launches on lovely, sweet bergamot top notes, but these give way quickly to a syrupy vanillic
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    Updated 12th July 2014 at 03:58 AM by Way Off Scenter

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