Genre: Woody Oriental
The first time I sampled L’Homme Infini I couldn’t even work up enough interest in it to write a review. It arrived amidst a slew of black pepper-spiked fragrances that emerged in the wake of Marc Jacobs’s Bang, and by the time I got to it I was bored with the whole idea. The black pepper tide has since receded, and I decided to revisit L’Homme Infini with a refreshed palette. I have to admit I like it better the second time around. In fact, it might
No top notes to speak of here – Marrakech launches straight into its central accord of spices and resins, and that’s pretty much where it stays for as long as it lasts. Cardamom and clove are both prominent at Marrakech’s heart, and the tart, lemony aspect of the cardamom note is the only relief offered in what is otherwise a uniformly dense, opaque composition. The fragrance is potent, tenacious, and projects conspicuously, so you won’t need much of it
Green citrus top notes establish a brisk, refreshing olfactory presence as they usher in a central movement of elemi, a polite oudh reconstruction, amber, and iris. The composition smells a good deal less syrupy and opaque than its masculine counterpart, its iris less powdery and dense. Indeed, with its crisp vetiver foundation, Amyris Femme is a much more “rugged” fragrance than Amyris Homme, which features borderline cloying gourmand cocoa and coffee notes.
Updated 16th July 2014 at 02:55 AM by Way Off Scenter
A bracing, herbaceous, yet deeply earthy patchouli resting upon a mossy-leathery chypre foundation. If you love patchouli but don’t want to smell like the local head shop, this and Nicolaï’s Patchouli Intense are probably two of your best bets. Outstanding quality and a beguiling animalic chypre drydown.
For more reviews of Noir Patchouli, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.
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Updated 15th July 2014 at 05:13 PM by Way Off Scenter
Genre: Woody Oriental
This is by a narrow margin my favorite of Francis Kurkdjian’s three “Oud Mood” fragrances. Medicinal oudh jumps out from the very start, supported mostly by warm, animalic labdanum. The composition sounds simple, but the effect is intricate and nuanced, thanks to the inherent complexity of the two central notes. Though the ingredient is not mentioned in the pyramid, the oudh accord here has the kind of crackling, smoky aspect I have come to associate
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