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  1. Fougere Frenzy Pt II: The Jaded Brut

    The fougère seems like it took something of a back seat in France during the mid 20th century, while male chypres mostly based on citrus and animalic notes took over as the newest and most sophisticated fare. The source of inspiration was drawn from Guerlain's Jicky and it's early adoption by men, and there seemed to be a shift away from the fougère as the French houses tried instead to make the chypre masculine. It was a class of scent typically being the realm of women since it's introduction ...

    Updated 4th December 2017 at 11:16 AM by Zealot Crusader

    Vintage fragrance
  2. Fougere Frenzy Pt I: The Royale Canoe

    In my quest to learn how all my favorite scents became what they are, and what begat them, I've tumbled down the perfume rabbit hole all the way back to the late 1800's, where niche perfumers first started making stuff for men that wasn't a custom bespoke commission nobody else could have until the contract ran out. In my findings, I learned Houbigant's Fougere Royale (1882) was the alpha that set that standard, and from which the genre took it's name, but Dana's Canoe (1936) that really became ...

    Updated 4th December 2017 at 11:07 AM by Zealot Crusader

    Vintage fragrance
  3. Avon Weirdness III: Final Thoughts, Multinational Weirdness and Packaging Mysteries

    Since writing this, I've kind of calmed down on Avon acquisitions, The sickness has mostly run it's course after getting most of things I had wanted from the decade most relevant to me, then after pedaling backwards through preceding decades, learning about what they tried, what worked, what didn't, and where it all started anyway (at least for their masculines). You can read the previous entries for more stream-of-consciousness takes on what I was experiencing at the time, but this about sums it ...
  4. Comme des Garçons : Parfum ex pyramide

    Thick and sweet with honey spices and balms, CdG Parfum is not a million cubits from Khyphu the ancient Egyptian temple incense (which they have now reconstructed for the Grand Musée du Parfum in Paris.) Referring back to the prehistory of perfume seems an appropriate place to start your career but this first Comme des Garçons creation by Mark Buxton is a thoroughly incongruous beast; it feels absolutely nothing like his later ethereal work that established him as an avant-gardeist, and it's anything ...

    Updated 29th November 2017 at 08:13 AM by Wild Gardener

  5. The Official Creed Viking Thread—Part 3

    Quote Originally Posted by The Bark View Post
    My initial thoughts I posted on the other thread were that its opening 20 or so minutes really reminded me of a mix between Caron's L'Anarchiste with cinnamon, mint and "clove" type effect, but also with vintage Lagerfeld Photo with that one's lavender. After a bit it morphed, but it's definitely a weird one to describe. Yeah, it has nuances of late 80's/early 90's classic stuff, but with a modern edge. I also get a sea vibe with a marine note, kind of more Bond Wall Streetish - but
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