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Zealot Crusader

  1. Reformulation Madness: Is Older Always Better?

    One of the things a serious collector and wearer of perfumes must consider is reformulation: That inevitability when a perfumer decides to change the formula based on ingredients availability, cost, changes in regulation, or sometimes even for stylistic refresh. That last one is all but blasphemy as most people who fall in love with a fragrance never wish it to change, but the ones before it are more or less begrudgingly understood as a fact of life within this hobby. Whether to pinch a few more ...
  2. Much Ado About Nothing: Perfume Cost

    The average person who walks into a perfume store, or a perfume counter at a department store, tries or is shown several things by the salesperson, makes a choice or takes some samples for a later choice, and life goes on. Sometimes you have that person on a mission that knows what they want, and they're less likely to explore or be talked into something, but the bottom line is they smell something and they like it, they make a purchase or don't, and that's the end of the show folks.
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    Updated 8th September 2019 at 09:08 AM by Zealot Crusader

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  3. Perfume Jargon: The Fougère Pt. 3

    No discussion of the revered fougère genre in perfume could happen without mentioning the rise of niche perfume. Niche perfume houses unattached to designer labels began to grow in number, undoubtedly because they offered the variety that was missing in increasing amounts from designer and drugstore perfume over the years. Niche houses were great at first because they weren't confined to budgetary limitations, made scents via focus groups, or needed contracts with large chem firms to operate effectively ...
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  4. Perfume Jargon: The Fougère Pt. 2

    Fougères after their first initial revival in the 60's were really quite something, and although they may seem laughable and dated to some nowadays with their heavy musk and tonka profiles, they were seen as daringly masculine compared to the bay rums, dry lemony eau de colognes, sharp chypres, and minty aftershaves men had grown accustomed to mid-century. Scents like British Sterling in particular were an amazing advancement in the world of fougères as they leaned more-heavily on oakmoss and excitingly ...
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  5. Perfume Jargon: The Fougère Pt. 1

    Spend some time talking to perfume fans or collectors and you will invariably come across some terms you've never heard before being used to describe classes of perfume. Among the most frequently-cited terms is "fougère", and it is a word associated primarily with fragrances marketed to men. Not all male-market perfume is a fougère, but nearly all modern examples of the fougère are marketed either to men, or as unisex creations preferred by men. Basic "perfume collecting 101" ...
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