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Wild Gardener

  1. Beauty and the Brut

    There's nothing special about the Great Smell of Brut; it was just a good fougère, nice - but nothing revolutionary. What made Brut great, and a big success, was something more subtle - attitude.

    It's a sweet and pleasant little thing that never - at any time - resembles the brute it purports to be. The balance of sweet, green and anisic is alright, but that doesn't explain the phenomenal success that Brut enjoyed in the 1970's when - for a generation - it became the male scent de ...

    Updated 14th February 2019 at 08:25 PM by Wild Gardener

  2. Who wants to be Boss?

    Sometimes life proceeds through conflict. According to the philosopher Hegel this happens when a force reacts with its opposite and out of the resulting conflict something better is created. To put it in his terminology, thesis plus antithesis leads to synthesis on a higher level.

    A good example comes from a period exactly one hundred years ago when two of the greatest perfumers were at the height of their powers. When Jacques Guerlain smelt his rival's ground breaking Chypre he didn't ...

    Updated 12th January 2019 at 07:41 AM by Wild Gardener

  3. How to rate the Carmen Miranda Hat by Balenciaga?

    Like Carmen Miranda's hat, Balenciaga's Le Dix (1947) is a remarkable creation but it couldn't be more out of fashion. (Indeed, as a stage adornment her hat was never meant to be a piece of street fashion but a theatrical prop.)

    Le Dix is an excellent perfume that develops the archaic fruity floral style of Caron's Colony (1938) to great advantage - and so would be of interest to historically ...

    Updated 15th September 2018 at 07:49 PM by Wild Gardener

  4. Giorgio

    Coming to Giorgio afresh as it were, after thirty odd years, it still smells surprisingly good. A happy-go-lucky, fruity tuberose, laughing in your face like perfumery had at last been liberated from the dreadful worthiness of all those Seventies chypres. It's time to have some fun shouts Giorgio, fling back those curtains - let that golden sunlight come pouring in; spritz on some of that giant yellow songbird and play!

    It could only have been conceived of in California, the Sunshine ...

    Updated 27th August 2018 at 02:02 PM by Wild Gardener

  5. Une aire de reformulation

    What makes L'Air du Temps so interesting isn't the complexity of the theme - it's just a carnation bouquet. It doesn't have an unusual structure - it's an ordinary head/heart/base triangle. Evolution of the profile is moderate - there are no surprises. What makes L'Air du Temps so interesting is the seductive quality of the materials and the textures they deploy.

    Let's start at the base and work our way up. The profile starts with a pedestal of sandal, methyl ionone and a vetiver ...

    Updated 15th June 2018 at 09:37 PM by Wild Gardener

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