Blog Comments

  1. David Ruskin's Avatar
    I hadn't thought of that but it makes perfect sense! Do a bit of market research, type in the results, and chose from a selection of standard formulae. Give it a bit of advertising, a bit of a fancy launch, watch it die after six monthes and then on to the next one. How depressing.
  2. Elf's Avatar
    Yes, I love quite a few synthetics, and couldn't build many perfumes without them. What would Mitsouko be without C-14?? I agree that the problem is that most formulae for new perfumes these days, even many niche, seem slap-dashed together, with cheap chemicals often used instead of better quality ingredients. Some synthetics, like Cosmone and muscenone, are quite cher. I swear some perfumes by the bigger brands are created by computer programs, not people. Popular perfume "recipes" are plugged in, and a variation pops out. Could this be why so many new mainstream releases smell nearly identical?? ;-)
  3. David Ruskin's Avatar
    I don't think it is a question of synthetics vs. naturals, with naturals being the good guys. Many perfumery notes cannot be achieved without synthetic aromachemicals, Muguet for example; no synthetics, no Diorissimo. Fine fragrance perfumery from Fougere Royale onwards has been about the creative use of new chemcals. What I am complaining about is the lazy, badly compounded fragrances that are being launched today. There are exceptions. There are creative people (perfumers, marketing people, etc.) who care about their product. Unfortunately, it seems that these are in the minority.
  4. Elf's Avatar
    Yes, the synthetic overload (and resulting headaches) is one of the main reasons I went the DIY route. Most of the perfumes I make for friends and family are over 50% natural, and several are totally natural. I think synthetics, used in small amounts, add structure and longevity. But only synthetics? Yuck!
  5. 's Avatar
    I feel your pain.:o I smell synthetic overload in just about every new release I sample. It's almost to the point where I won't bother anymore.

    Basically, I'll stick with vintage designers and some future exploring of higher-end niche.
  6. Elf's Avatar
    My thoughts exactly, David. Things could be a lot more exciting out there with new aromachemicals, newly discovered natural materials, lots of talent. So sad, isn't it?
  7. David Ruskin's Avatar
    How right you are! Modern fine fragrance perfumery is in a terrible state although I have noticed recently that there have been a couple of half decent new launches. I'm not really sure why we should have gotten into such a bad place. Fragrance houses select their new launches by commitee and play safe. I doubt if Poison, or Opium would have been launched today. There are too many fine fragrances on the market and the customer has become confused. I think the developers spend more money on the bottle and the ads than on the juice. Most new pefumes are not expected to last more than a few monthes, years at the most, on the shelf. We don't care for classics anymore. And don't get me started on all the new regulations which limit the use of vital raw materials. Get as many of the old classics as possible, there aren't going to be many left soon.
  8. Elf's Avatar
    The absolute I have is somewhat waxy in consistency, semi-solid. It dissolves easily in perfumer's alcohol, but I put the resulting liquid through a coffee filter, as there are some particulates (not much, I just filter for aesthetic reasons really). To get at the absolute, I use a tiny scoop to get it out of the tiny bottle!
  9. ECaruthers's Avatar
    Thanks for another interesting post, Elf. Of course, I always want to hear more about your adventures.
    First, what's the consistency of your vanilla absolute? Some other absolutes I've worked with are so sticky & viscous, they're almost solid. If that's the case with your vanilla absolute, how hot do you have to get it before your can pour or measure it?
    Second, How well does it disolve in alcohol? Or have you tried disolving it in jojoba or some other oil?
  10. Elf's Avatar
    Hi, E!
    Texas and Virginia cedars are actually junipers, they aren't related to Cedrus cedars. The delightful "pencil shavings" note actually comes from these junipers. I got the Cedrus eos from Eden Botanicals, and Liberty Natural also carries them, as does White Lotus Aromatics. Weirdly, when I put together some Texas Cedar and Atlas Cedar, I get the smell of peanuts. Of course, maybe it's just me....I tend to use either one or the other in a perfume, but not both. :-)
  11. ECaruthers's Avatar
    Hi, Elf,

    Where did you order your cedars? I'd like to compare them to the Texas Cedarwood (Juniperus mexicana) EO I have from Aura Cacia. I know common and botanical naming conventions get jumbled. Maybe they're not at all alike.

    Thanks.
  12. perfumista's Avatar
    Thanks for posting that
  13. Elf's Avatar
    Most of the lavenders work as top/heart notes, though I have one L. augustifolia that goes on for literally days. This one works as a base note and lasts at least 4-6 hours on skin.
  14. ECaruthers's Avatar
    Hi, Elf, and thanks for the interesting alternative. How does the longevity of this compare to other lavenders?
  15. Elf's Avatar
    It really is gorgeous. I got mine from Liberty Natural. It's not always available, so you could see if either Liberty or White Lotus Aromatics is carrying it. There may be other sources as well, as both LN and WLA have minimum purchase requirements ($50 for LN and $100 for WLA).
  16. blupest's Avatar
    Sounds like an ingredient I must try. I adore the sort of notes you describe. Where did you obtain your sample from?
  17. Elf's Avatar
    I've found it adds an interesting note to some ambers, and would probably work well with non-ozonic "beach accords". Bvlgari Aqua (the original) has a note like choya nakh, though I don't know if that's what was used. My friends who've been there say Aqua smells like the Black Sea in the morning.
  18. Amit's Avatar
    You're right about it being a stinker --- personally I have no idea how one'd use this. Very interesting nonetheless
  19. blupest's Avatar
    Hmm..I've heard about this material but not ordered any yet.From your description I'd say I have to give it a go. I love smokey,masculine materials.
  20. Elf's Avatar
    Oh, that sounds delicious! I must try that one. I'd tried davana with members of the orange family and it works well, but adding cocoa, yum!
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