Critiques and observations of the business of perfumery
Perfumers use a lot of different materials derived from the citrus family of trees, also called "hesperides." The name hesperides is from the Greek ἔσπερ [read: hésper], a word meaning both "evening" and "west" (because the evening sun sets in the west). The association with the west is probably that citrus fruits and trees were first introduced to Europe by explorers returning from East Asia to Spain and Portugal, the extreme western countries
Updated 26th January 2010 at 05:10 AM by JaimeB
The thread we were pursuing about Chanel Antaeus, and the interesting question of the use (or not) of oakmoss in its original formula (or subsequent possible reformulations) seems to have shifted focus. The question seems to have come around to what the future of chypres will be with no (or much less) oakmoss. Also, another matter has come up: the use of beeswax absolute in chypres.
The effect of the 1991 IFRA recommendation on restricting levels of oakmoss in fragrances seems to have
Updated 5th November 2009 at 08:13 AM by JaimeB
I was extremely fortunate today to spend a half-hour or more chatting with DelRae Roth, the motive force behind Parfums DelRae. She was spending the afternoon at Barneys, San Francisco, showing and discussing her six meticulously planned and sparklingly sophisticated perfumes, and dropping intriguingly vague hints about another to be introduced in the spring of 2010. The perfect name, she confided, has already been found, but at this point, even that is a tantalizing secret!
Updated 18th October 2009 at 11:54 PM by JaimeB
Roja Dove published a book called The Essence of Perfume (London: Black Dog Publishing, 2008). In it, he gives wonderful descriptions and evaluations about all things perfume-related; but especially enlightening are his descriptions of some of the natural raw materials that go into making scents. In all, he details 94 separate natural raw materials. He deals with 24 synthetic materials also; in my opinion he deals with synthetics much better and much more fully than almost any non-technical book
Updated 22nd August 2009 at 05:52 AM by JaimeB
In the recent history of perfumes, one of the most significant developments has been the rise of niche perfumery. Let me define this term a little more precisely for the sake of clarity: When I speak of niche houses, I mean perfume companies that do not distribute their products (at least initially) through department stores; that seek to find a different creative inspiration and marketing method from the large designer and mass-market scent houses; and that introduce themselves to the world by
Updated 11th February 2009 at 05:31 AM by JaimeB
(Corrections to matters of fact. Thanks to Roberto!)