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The Fragrance Industry

Critiques and observations of the business of perfumery

  1. Animal Notes in Perfumery: History & Analysis, Part 1

    For a very long time now, perfumers have been using animal products in finished perfumes. Of course, by far the largest number of perfume materials are either plant-based or (since the late nineteenth century) synthetic. All things considered, it seems odd that animal products were ever discovered as perfume materials, given the evident pleasant smell of flowers, resins, woods, and so on. Why did people ever go beyond those to harvest some very unlikely, and on the surface, very unpleasant animal ...

    Updated 22nd February 2010 at 03:39 PM by JaimeB

    The Fragrance Industry , The Art of Perfumery , Perfume History
  2. Know Your Citrus: A Compendium

    Perfumers use a lot of different materials derived from the citrus family of trees, also called "hesperides." The name hesperides is from the Greek ἔσπερ [read: hésper], a word meaning both "evening" and "west" (because the evening sun sets in the west). The association with the west is probably that citrus fruits and trees were first introduced to Europe by explorers returning from East Asia to Spain and Portugal, the extreme western countries ...

    Updated 26th January 2010 at 06:10 AM by JaimeB

    The Fragrance Industry , The Art of Perfumery
  3. Newer or "Modern" Chypres: Oakmoss Out, Beeswax In?

    The thread we were pursuing about Chanel Antaeus, and the interesting question of the use (or not) of oakmoss in its original formula (or subsequent possible reformulations) seems to have shifted focus. The question seems to have come around to what the future of chypres will be with no (or much less) oakmoss. Also, another matter has come up: the use of beeswax absolute in chypres.

    The effect of the 1991 IFRA recommendation on restricting levels of oakmoss in fragrances seems to have

    Updated 5th November 2009 at 09:13 AM by JaimeB

    The Fragrance Industry , The Art of Perfumery
  4. A Chat with DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae

    I was extremely fortunate today to spend a half-hour or more chatting with DelRae Roth, the motive force behind Parfums DelRae. She was spending the afternoon at Barneys, San Francisco, showing and discussing her six meticulously planned and sparklingly sophisticated perfumes, and dropping intriguingly vague hints about another to be introduced in the spring of 2010. The perfect name, she confided, has already been found, but at this point, even that is a tantalizing secret!


    Updated 19th October 2009 at 12:54 AM by JaimeB

    Scent Reviews , The Fragrance Industry , The Art of Perfumery
  5. Roja Dove on Orris Root

    Roja Dove published a book called The Essence of Perfume (London: Black Dog Publishing, 2008). In it, he gives wonderful descriptions and evaluations about all things perfume-related; but especially enlightening are his descriptions of some of the natural raw materials that go into making scents. In all, he details 94 separate natural raw materials. He deals with 24 synthetic materials also; in my opinion he deals with synthetics much better and much more fully than almost any non-technical book ...

    Updated 22nd August 2009 at 06:52 AM by JaimeB

    The Fragrance Industry , The Art of Perfumery
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