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With so many upcoming launches of niche fragrance, perfumistos are experiencing an abundance of riches. There was a time, not too long ago, that finding a great niche fragrance was like hunting for buried treasure. Today, we have Treasure Island.

It’s overwhelming how much is new in niche…but with the blogosphere, consumer event driven organizations such as the influential Sniffapalooza, and sites like Basenotes.net, it is you, the educated and discerning consumer who drive this unprecedented demand for unique and superior fragrances.

There are a few trends emerging:

Perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour, the “Perfumer in Residence” at L’Artisan Parfumeur is leaving his thumbprint on innovative fragrances from niche companies (Eau d’Italie and Comme des Garcons) and is a bonafide leader of the new garde of contemporary fragrance. Duchaufour is also composing ‘signature’ fragrances for Aedes and Luckyscent.

The Houses of Chanel and Guerlain are trying to return to their roots by producing special fragrances ‘en niche’, created by in-house perfumers Jacques Polge, Sylvaine Delacourte, Jean Paul Guerlain and now Thierry Wasser.

Look for fragrance e-tailers (like Aedes and Luckyscent) as well as specialty stores (such as Henri Bendel and Takashimaya) to differentiate themselves by creating their own ‘house scent’, reviving the trend started by Barney’s and Apothia over a decade ago.

A pervading shade of grey… melancholy… can be detected in many new fragrances, possibly reflecting our current state of global affairs

And finally, at long last, the acceptance of natural/artisnal fragrance as art.

Beige - 'Les Exclusifs' by Chanel

Chanel debuts Beige -- its twelfth fragrance in its much lauded Les Exclusifs by Chanel. “I take refuge in beige because it's natural“, said Mademoiselle Chanel.
While the Eskimos supposedly have a thousand words for snow, Jaques Polge may not have quite as many interpretations for ‘beige’, but I believe there are going to be quite a few depending on the wearer. In keeping with The House’s focus of unveiling its illustrious past (through the association of Chanel symbols, numbers, addresses, artifacts and now color with perfumery unique to Mademoiselle Chanel), Beige is sure to please -- this fragrance is as close to ‘a your skin but better fragrance’ as Chanel will ever create.

I tested Beige only on myself. I usually know within a minute or two if a Chanel fragrance is ‘for me’ (i.e. Sycomore, Bel Respiro and 28 la Pausa are personal favorites). And Beige is.

Beige opens with the signature blast of aldehydes, which I ‘breathe through’… Next is a white soft floral accord, a bouquet of hawthorn, freesia and frangipani; the frangipani is most beautiful on my skin. But it is the drydown that is the revelation…it figuratively shimmers with a golden amber honey accord. It is sensual and subtle, but absolutely NOT neutral.

Smell me and color me honey beige. What color Beige are you?

• Available: Exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue NY in October
• Price $190 /200ml spray
  

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens

Is it me or are the recent SL exports improving? Bois et Fruits, Bois de Violette (and yes there is truth in the rumor that Santal de Mysore will soon be stateside) are mollifying, but please explain why we Yanks must fly scent mules to France to smuggle bell jars of Iris Silver Mist or El Attarine.

Good news! Serge Noire, the latest export offering from Serge Lutens does deliver (love the name which is a double entendre; serge noire is also the translation for a black cloth used in uniforms in France).

At first, Serge Noire seems slightly familiar, as if it was a cross between Bulgari Black and Gris Clair. On me, the smell of rubber opens the scent, before anise and cinnamon take over. I detect patchouli and camphor. But there is an odd sweetness that counters the more earthy and astringent notes, an unusual blend of vanillin and spice notes, benzoin and styrax on my skin.

The company lists the top notes as “Ethereal Notes”, (I have no idea what they are) and the heart notes are Patchouli, Camphor, Cinnamon and Spices, with base notes of Woody Notes and Amber.

The whole is greater than the sum of its parts; Serge Noire distinguishes itself with an unusual drydown. There is this 'Chet Baker' raspy and soulful vocal quality to this scent…

Not too oriental, nor too spicy-dark (this is a bit of a relief). It fades in and out, this melancholy---alternating with something hopeful and promising. It’s enigmatic. I believe you will debate back and forth, “Do I NEED Serge Noire?“ and I bet that you will find it too tempting to resist.

• Available: www.barneys.com and www.bergdorfgoodman.com in September, but is already available at www.aedes.com
• Price $ 140 USD / 1.69oz Eau de Parfum - Haute Concentration

Vetiver Dance by Tauer Perfumes

Andy Tauer, the Swiss chemist/perfumer/dreamer has captivated most niche fragrance lovers with at least one of his six scents. The complex and brilliant Reverie au Jardin is one of my personal signature fragrances. And with about a thousand sniffed, sprayed and tested… enough said.

Vetiver Dance was named by a member of the perfume/ internet community who suggested it on Andy’s blog. Regarding the bottle, the simplicity of the graphics as is the case with all of Andy’s fragrant offerings, is in direct contrast with the complexity of the juice. Top notes are grapefruit, clary sage leaves, black pepper, and the surprise of lily of the valley. The heart note is vetiver from Java. Base notes are cedarwood, cistus, ambergris and tonka bean. There are the signature contrast of shadows and light; sweet and smoky.

In the refreshingly simple press release, written by Tauer himself, Andy describes Vetiver Dance as “a twirling dance, notes revolving joyfully around vetiver”.

I describe it as "slow dancing in a burning room”.

I do not use other testers with Tauer perfumes, because they are so visceral and emotional; even when they do not reach their fullest potential on me, I look forward to each new fragrance.

Vetiver Dance is a unisex eau de toilette which opens with a brief explosion of fiery pepper and smoke that engages the soft ambergris and lily of the valley accords into a Paso Doble performed by two lovers. There is drama, tension, passion, but ultimately the dance of rage and love ends, leaving a bittersweet memory of tonka bean in the drydown.

I wrote to Andy before I penned this and God Bless him; he was a tad perplexed, but happy it struck such a highly charged emotional ‘accord’ in me.

• Availailabilty: Launching October 4th at www.luckyscent.com. Meet Andy Tauer at the ScentBar in Los Angeles on October 4th and October 17th. Vetiver Dance will also be available at www.aedes.com and samples are currently available at www.First-in-fragrance.com
• Price: TBD $100/ 50ml / samples €4

Aedes de Venustas Eau de parfum by Aedes de Venustas

Anyone who has been fortunate enough to visit Aedes de Venustas in New York City understands it’s a special place. A well edited selection of hard to find and boutique perfumes fill the opulent shelves of this fragrant emporium. In 2005, a ground breaking partnership between L’Artisan Parfumeur, Bertrand Duchaufour, and Aedes de Venustas resulted in an exclusive candle and room spray. It quickly developed a cult following.

The next step of course was to create the ultimate signature perfume for the store by le nez Bertrand Duchaufour. Do not mistake this is as more potent version of the room spray, although its roots are firmly planted in the woody, incense and oriental appeal of the proceeding aromas. Because that is what room sprays and candles are… aromas. This is perfume; sure to delight the fans of Duchaufour.

Aedes de Venustas, the Eau de Parfum, is spicier and more complex. Top notes of bright orange oil (see review of Baume au Doge), spicy pink pepper, cardamom, and incense open and join the heart notes of piquant black pepper, rose, iris, cedarwood and incense resinoid. The base notes are patchouli, coffee, opopanax, benzoin, and vanilla. New facets of the fragrance appear; a sparkling chypre accord adds sophistication, balsam adds depth and leather adds luxe. The burgundy faceted bottle is lovely. Sometimes you need a bit of eye candy complementing juice this compelling.

Karl and Robert should be proud!

• Availability: www.aedes.com in October 2008
• Price: $185.00/ 3.4 ounces

Sublime Balkiss by The Different Company

The Different Company has launched Sublime Balkiss, a "surprising fragrance, with a familiar touch to it". It is named for Balkiss, aka the Queen of Sheba, and is described as a modern chypre fragrance without oakmoss (real or synthetic) or animal-derived raw materials.

I find this fragrance to be her best work for the Different Company since Sel de Vetiver. It is innovative and since I find that oakmoss is heavy on my skin, I am glad that base note is absent. In another interesting ‘twist, Ms. Ellena features two kinds of patchouli: the traditional essence, and a modified modern patchouli which emphasizes the cocoa powder note; this fragrance borders on the woody/fruit category.

So for those of us who aren’t fans of traditional chypres or patchouli, this is bottle worthy.

Sublime Balkiss open with bergamot, blueberry, blackcurrant, which dominate throughout the composition. Heart notes of Damascus Rose, Lilac, Violet and Rose and the unexpected note of heather are grounded by the two types of Patchouli which bring forth a Cocoa accord. The drydown is chocolate powder and subtlety fruity.

On two of my testers, the Egyptian iris and heather notes were especially prominent. Lucky testers!

This will be launched in the USA in 2009, but it is available through the wonderful First in Fragrance website. I would recommend you buy a sample before investing in the bottle, although Sublime Balkiss is among the site’s best sellers since its debut.

Sublime Balkiss is a wonderfully feminine scent and surprising soft, great for everyday wear with very good sillage.

• Availability: www.First-in-fragrance.com
• Price: 80 Euro /50ml

Ambre Fétiche by Annick Goutal

Annick Goutal's Les Orientalistes is a trio of fragrances that was recently released in the US as a coffret at www.aedes.com. Created by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal, the trio of perfumes was inspired by the scents of the Orient, specifically the opulence of the harem. These fragrances are unisex (and based on the paintings shown on the website) are meant to bring to mind the setting of a sultan’s lair, which in this case includes the eunuchs and the potentate.

All three scents are intriguing (the trio also includes Encens Flamboyant and Myrrhe Ardente). Ambre Fétiche is the standout on all eight of my fearless testers who include five women and three men. Even my tester who has a ‘thing' against amber agreed it was pretty darn good.

The company lists the notes as frankincense, labdanum, styrax, benzoin, iris, vanilla and leather. Ambre Fétiche opens with a brief bitter medicinal note, then becomes intense, slightly gourmand, spicy, resinous or an oriental amber depending on the wearer. On one of my testers, a male, the amber is the star, on another, a female, it’s the resinous frankincense. On me, it stays medicinal for a bit too long but dries down to an exquisite soft benzoin and styrax trail. I do not detect any amber notes at all on my skin. On another tester it’s an amber gourmand confection--- creamy and milky, comparable to dolce con leche. All of us agree that the labdanum and leather notes add a touch of muskiness that evokes ancient tinctures.

• Availability: Ambre Fetiche and Les Orientalistes debut in September at www.saks.com and the coffret of all three is available now at www.aedes.com
• Price: $175 /EDP 100ml

Baume au Doge by Eau d’Italie

Eau d’Italie, the niche brand I have nicknamed “the little fragrance engine that could” has produced some striking fragrances over the past few years, (including Rose Paestum, Sienne l’hiver and Eau d’Italie), which were developed for the owners of the Le Sirenuese Hotel in Positano, by Bertrand Duchaufour.

Eau d’Italie debuts Baume au Doge this fall, an homage to the Venetian Doges (rulers) and the glorious golden hull of the Bucintoro, the Doge's ceremonial ship that traveled the seas to the orient in search of the most precious of unguents and spices.

Making their way to Venice from India, Persia or China on the back of mules and camels, then aboard daring merchant ships, a world of spices found its way to Venice. Traders brought back riches the likes Europe had never seen; roots, barks, seeds, pistils, flowers, rhizomes and resins. Thus myrrh and frankincense, saffron and clove, cardamom and vanilla, sweet oranges, sharp bergamots and wild fennel were introduced and became integral to the culture, used in medicines, food, and of course perfumery.

This is an exotic fragrance which opens with top notes of Sweet Orange and Bergamot from Calabria – Cinnamon from Ceylon, Coriander and Cardamom from India, Fennel from Southern France, Black Pepper from Sichuan. The Middle notes include Myrrh and Frankincense from Somalia, Clove from Zanzibar and Cedar from the Atlas, Saffron. Base notes of Vetiver and Vanilla from the Bourbon Islands and Benzoin from Siam bring richnes and opulence to the entire composition.

Bertrand Duchaufour is a well known traveler and this fragrance must have been a particular delight for one of the most talented fragrant 'voyagers' to compose. Baume au Doge opens with a blast of fennel and pepper on my skin, slowly evolving into the dark heart of Africa with myrrh and frankincense notes, and a hint of sweetness of vanilla and benzoin on drydown. On owner Sebastián Alvarez, the sweet orange oil emerged immediately and shines brightly, and the spices of clove and saffron were easily discerned.
Kudos --- another intriguing fragrance from bell Italia, Eau d’Italie and Bertrand Duchaufour.

• Availability: www.lafcony.com in October 2008. For more information call: 1-800-362-3677
• Price: $110.00/ 3.4 ounces

Jitterbug by Opus Oils

According to the stunning Kedra Hart, (one of the developers of the Apothecary at Barney’s), the owner, perfumer and founder of Opus Oils and its new shoppe in Hollywood, I am the very first person to receive a bottle of Jitterbug, a smoky, sexy jasmine fragrance named in honour of Tom Robbin’s best selling novel — Jitterbug Perfume. Kedra is certainly an advocate of natural perfumery and many of her scents are 100% natural and contain no synthetics. All Opus Oil products are manufactured in the USA (unless specifically stated otherwise) whenever possible.

If you have any thought that this is a Jasmin et Cigarette clone, forget it. It stands on its own six inch ‘green’ stilettos.

The key notes of this ‘flapper meets Dita Von Teese meets Nina Simone’ fragrance include: Jasmine, Jasmine, and more Jasmine--- with a heart of Sweet Honeysuckle, Sparkling Lemon Essence, Luscious Orange Blossom, and base notes of “Beach Found” Ambergris, Blond Tobacco & Sandalwood.

Oh, and did I mention, Jasmine.

• Availability: www.opusoils.com, www.JitterbugPerfumeParlour.com or visit Opus Oils’ Jitterbug Perfume Parlour located at 4959 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, CA 90027
• Price: $100.00/ 2 oz perfume oil spray (I AM NOT sharing)

Lucienne by Lucienne von Doz

A stunning Countess discovers a drop of her mother’s vintage perfume in a flacon buried in an old trunk. Olfactive memories inspire her and she sets out on a scented journey. She calls an old friend, (the great nephew of the Great Emperess of China) who introduces her to a talented perfumer who helps her recreate this beautiful fragrance from a single drop. When the fragrance is completed it is perfection and the Countess donates a portion to The Singer’s Development Foundation, (a cause that supports aspiring opera singers and a cause the Countess has spent years championing).

This is not a marketing fantasy invented by an overzealous copyrighter to sell more fragrance. It is the true story of an extraordinary woman and opera patron - Countess Lucienne von Doz.

The result? One of the most striking feminines in recent years. Lucienne was created by a young perfumer from IFF named Laurent Bruyere, who is responsible for some highly successful mass and celebrity fragrances. Never had he been given both an unlimited budget and resources. He was able to capture the pre war chic of the Countess’s mother perfectly and added a contemporary twist.

Of course Lucienne (the parfum is the bel canto, do not settle for the eau de parfum) is based on the diva of all feminines - The Rose. Top notes of bay rose, Bulgarian rose green ginger and bergamot. The heart is all female; rose maroc, Indian jasmine, a kiss of gardenia, orris, tulip and lily of the valley. The bases notes are musks, heliotrope, vanilla, grey amber, and nuances of sandalwood and cedarwood.

Lucienne has been on the market since 2004. Why it has not been embraced by more perfumistas is beyond me (although New York Times Perfume Critic Chandler Burr has been one of Lucienne’s greatest supporters). It has all the bones and fine ingredients of a “Joy by Patou, or a Chanel No.5”. But it is not just an ode to perfume’s splendid past; it is as contemporary as any fragrance in the niche market today.

Many fragrant masterpieces ‘en niche’ are unisex. I tested Lucienne on three men, and it smelled of a great female impersonator, good but tromp d’oeil. Lucienne glories in its femininity; it’s a fine fragrance that is all woman and a classy one at that. I seldom (if ever) quote another writer’s review, but Mr. Burr sums up the magic of this fragrance better than any closing I can come up with. He says, “Lucienne smells of something more important and fundamental than any single material: quality.”

• Available at lucienneperfumes.net
• Price: $250.00/ 1.7 ounces

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Oranger Alhambra by Armani Privé

The third fragrance in the Les Eaux Collection by Armani Privé ( which includes the wonderful Rose Alexandrie and Vetiver Babylone) is Oranger Alhambra – is dedicated to the art of the gardens that were created in 1248 under Muslim rule in Andalusia, Spain. Within the walls of the Alhambra is an incomparable garden that is a piece of paradise on earth. The influence of Islamic culture and its great architecture is fixed for perpetuity in the Alhambra: the stone monuments, marble mosaics and canals channeling the waters of the Sierra. Yet again, Armani Privé continues its thematic ode to great historic monuments and institutions.

Top notes are a glint of Lemon, Bergamot and bitter Orange, Petitgrain (that adds a touch of sharpness, greenness and vitality). The heart notes are full-bodied, authentic and simple; Rosemary and Marjoram add an aromatic and natural facet when blended with Jasmine. Finally, base notes of Moss and Patchouli lend an occidental drydown to the fragrance which seems drenched by the Andalusian sun.

Iconic bottle, decently priced and a nice addition to the line. Mr. Armani, will ‘Taj Mahal’ be next?

• Availability: www.giorgioarmanibeauty.com and at select Saks Ffifth Avenue stores.
• Price: $115.00/ 3.4 ounces

There were quite a few new fragrances that I could not fit into this column, check back next time for reviews of what’s new in niche from Guerlain, Lostmarch, Byredo, Mandy Aftel, Nez a Nez, Parfums d’Empire, Tocca, and more.

About the author

Michelyn Camen is a New York-based writer and is the former Editorial Director/Fragrance Editor for Beauty News NY and LA, as well as contributor to Access Magazine and a Senior contributor to Sniffapalooza magazine.

Camen is a multi award winning marketing executive and the Founder and President of BrandWidth Consulting Co., which specializes in brand development and positioning for niche and emerging brands. Email: fifthsensenyc@aol.com.

All articles by Michelyn Camen

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