One of the country’s better known perfume houses is Acqua Di Parma (originally founded in 1916; now part of the LVMH group). Although it owes most of its success to the various versions of its Colonia, it also boasts a range of feminine perfumes, the latest of which was recently launched in the UK (the brand’s largest market after Italy and Germany).
Iris Nobile Sublime edp is a follow up to 2004’s Iris Nobile edt (the first scent in the Nobili range) and 2006’s Iris Nobile edp. Composed by Daniela Andrier (Candy, Infusion D’Homme), under the Creative Direction of Francois Demachy (Dior), it has been designed to offer a more streamlined take on Tuscan iris pallida, or, in the words of Ariane Silva Coronel from the Product Development & Marketing team, its aim is to “to purify the iris.”
“We wanted to open and simplify the whole fragrance,” she added. “This is a fragrance that evolves with an incredible fluidity. It actually starts with mandarin and Italian neroli, one of our signatures. Then we have the ylang ylang, which comes out right after the mandarin, and introduces the powdery aspect of iris. Then you smell jasmine and rose, two ingredients that we love. But this time we have jasmine sambac, instead of jasmine grandiflorum, so it’s more intense and more dense compared to the Calabrian jasmine. The rose is rosa centifolia.
“We also have orange blossom absolute which brings the citrusy note of the neroli back, but in a softer way. It perfectly softens the iris note and really shows its floral part. In the base, we have a fantastic trio with an accord of blond woods (cedar, birch and acacia) and patchouli. And everything is softened by musk. We call it an intense floral fragrance.”
The arrival of Iris Nobile Sublime also marks two changes in the presentation of the Nobili range. “One is a new bottle,” says Coronel “which is great news for us. We wanted the preciousness of this fragrance to show in the bottle, so we have a heavier glass base, and a taller, more modern design. The colour codes remain the same - we keep the gold label and cap - but we’ve decided to enrich the base of the box. For the first time, it’s completely covered with purple satin, made in Italy. Everything is hand made. Even the number of pleats in the satin has been checked and controlled.”
Coronel states that Iris Nobile Sublime is quiet and subtle, in keeping with the aesthetics of the rest of the Nobili range.
It’s also interesting to note that Acqua Di Parma is the latest in a growing line of brands to jump on the oud bandwagon. Their new Colonia Intensa Oud was inspired by the idea of a traditional cologne taking a trip to the Middle East. Coronel hinted that perhaps some day, one of the Nobili scents would travel to the Arabian Gulf too, but for now, the brand wanted to add the oud note only to their masculine range.
Iris Nobile Sublime will be available from September 2012. Colonia Intensa Oud is now available at Harrods.
About the author
Persolaise is a Jasmine Award wining writer and amateur perfumer with a lifelong interest in the world of fine fragrance. His perfume guide, Le Snob: Perfume, will be published later this year by Hardie Grant. You can find out more about his work atwww.persolaise.com or by writing to him at persolaise at gmail dot com.