• Animal-derived ingredients and botanical perfumes: sharing my secret!

    ‘Animals are equal – but some animals are more equal than others’. This is a famous quote from George Orwell's Animal Farm that could well apply when making perfume using botanicals. The debate about whether one should use animal-derived ingredients or not is an on-going one: some are taking a stance of being completely against them while others are trying to balance the argument.

    As a natural perfumer and one who has a strong stance against harming any animal, it would seem obvious to not use animal ingredients. However, in some of my formulations, particularly the oriental perfumes, an animal, faecal note might be the missing note to give more personality to a creation. I was faced with a choice of either using synthetically recreated musk or amber or selecting a small range of faecal and animal compounds which I knew did not harm the animal. Needless to say that deer musk and civet cat were out of the equation as the first one goes through despicable sufferings mainly for the satisfaction of the herbal medicine market and the second, despite not being killed, is kept captive in a cage in order to collect the matter from his glands. Castoreum is, in my view, sitting between the two thus this ingredient was out of the question.

    So what could I turn to? Ambergris, the expulsion from the sperm whale, which, after years of being washed on the ocean, releases a strong amber smell. Unfortunately, at exorbitant cost for a small piece and because it is now part of a worldwide treasure hunt while sperm whale populations are rapidly depleting, I cannot use it on a regular basis. African stone (also called Hyraceum), a urine/feces deposit from the Hyrax, a small mammal in Africa is one that I am more likely to get hold of and I have prepared some tincture of it for the customised perfumes. Its smell is not as strong as ambergris but it does give some intensity to a perfume.

    One day, however, I received a sample of an ingredient that has been around and used in cosmetics for hundreds of years, that does not harm the animal (not for the purpose of perfumery anyway – Note: I am neither a vegetarian nor a vegan), and that has proven efficient even for babies but yet is not easy to get hold of its pure form. IFRA also declared it an allergen. I am talking about pure lanolin. The potential occurred to me three years ago when I launched my Oriental perfume, Escapade à Oman. After having blended all the oriental ingredients including Oudh, frankincense, cedarwood, rose etc., something was missing to give it this extra’je ne sais quoi’. I decided to add just eight (thick) drops of the pure lanolin in a 50 ml bottle of the perfume. I forgot about it for weeks until I took it out of storage. On opening the bottle, I knew I had a winner.



    Sheep Image Wikipedia.org


    But I needed to know how big a winner it was. So I asked my favourite tester aka my wonderful partner-in-life to wear it for the day and give me his frank opinion. Before he left through the door, I kissed him goodbye but this time, I could not get away from his neck where he had sprayed the perfume. It was heaven! Between aphrodisiac and pheromone-like, but getting more towards the pheromone – this intangible scent that wants you to cling to a person for some subconscious reason. The addition of just a few drops of what is simply fat derived from lamb’s wool, had transformed an Oriental perfume into a divine one! My partner phoned me six hours later to say that the smell was still very much there and by the way, he has adopted Escapade à Oman as one of his regular Eaux de toilette!

    Next, I am planning to do a trial run with lard (fat from the pig). After all, old French perfumery used to extract essences from the flowers using lard (enfleurage technique). Besides, if we really want to make the best use of what nature offers us, why bother recreating it synthetically. The way forward is to recycle what has been used… and there are many sheep being shaved every day in the world!

    Escapade à Oman has been out of production for over 1 year but many of my clients from Germany to the United States, are asking for it as they have adopted it as their favourite Eau de toilette. I am happy to say that it will be available again in a couple of months.

    Next: The next article in this series will be published on Monday
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    : The Lure and Licencing of using Animal Extracts
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    About the author Isabelle Gellé
    Author AvatarIsabelle is a self-taught perfumer focusing on the Art rather than the Science of Perfumery, creating a bridge between Ancient and Modern scents. She began creating perfumes at the early age of 10, in New Caledonia using gardenia and other tropical plants macerating in coconut oil. Her extensive knowledge of the spices and aromas business in Africa, allowed her to get acquainted to the unlimited scents of Nature. Recently, she moved her production to the Seychelles to make use of the abundance of exotic scents available in the Indian Ocean islands. To learn more, visit her website

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    Comments 14 Comments
    1. lpp's Avatar
      lpp -
      Thanks!
    1. David Ruskin's Avatar
      David Ruskin -
      The quote comes from "Animal Farm" written by George Orwell.
    1. Albion9's Avatar
      Albion9 -
      So, where does one acquire pure lanolin?
    1. baubo's Avatar
      baubo -
      Confusing George Orwell with Aldous Huxley (Brave New World) - where was the sub-editor!
      Mistakes such as this really undermine articles, I'm not being unpleasant for the sake of it, just emphasising the importance of checking through anything you submit. We all make errors.
    1. JungleNYC's Avatar
      JungleNYC -
      Happy to try it…where can we buy some?
    1. Grant's Avatar
      Grant -
      Fixed the error now. Three pairs of eyes missed that, thanks for letting us know
    1. David Ruskin's Avatar
      David Ruskin -
      The quote is from Animal Farm not 1984, as I pointed out above. I happen to think that accuracy is important.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Oh well, clearly not important. That says so much.
    1. Fleurine's Avatar
      Fleurine -
      My only regret about going vegan is that I didn't do it years ago. #compassion. #govegan.
      I am going to refrain from reading the rest of this series because these types of ghoulish topics give me nightmares.
    1. edshepp's Avatar
      edshepp -
      Is lanolin soluble in alcohol?
    1. David Ruskin's Avatar
      David Ruskin -
      Thank you; at last.

      As Lanolin is a wax, I doubt if it is soluble in alcohol.
    1. purplebird7's Avatar
      purplebird7 -
      Lanolin -- brilliant. I hope it works out.
    1. AlHamr's Avatar
      AlHamr -
      Mrs Hamr and I spent an afternoon last spring packing fleeces on a friend's sheep farm. Lanolin certainly is animalic stuff. Mrs wasn't so convinced by the aphrodisiac qualities, but our hands did end up lovely and soft.
    1. Primrose's Avatar
      Primrose -
      I avoid animal ingredients if I know they are in the fragrance. I bought the Mugler Angel Leather (which I love) and was distressed that it was made of real leather. I though it was, like most scents, made of birch or something like that. I like the idea of hyraceum, which is animalic and cruelty free. No animals are harmed in its cultivation, which is from animal urine. Liz Zorn uses it in her natural perfumery.
    1. Parfumsisabelle's Avatar
      Parfumsisabelle -
      Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
      Thank you; at last.

      As Lanolin is a wax, I doubt if it is soluble in alcohol.
      I use Liquid lanolin which has emollient properties soluble in alcohol. But when I can't find any, I use the wax which I leave to macerate in the perfume for months and then remove. The pure lanolin wax has such a strong animal smell that it does impregnate the perfume after maceration.

      ''Liquid Lanolin Standard is produced from specially prepared lanolin feedstock that is subjected to low temperature fractional crystallisation. The product is composed of the liquid esters that partly make up Anhydrous Lanolin. It can be used in many applications similar to lanolin but provides a lighter feel with less drag in skincare and offers the substantial handling benefits of a liquid.

      The exceptional colour and odour of Liquid Lanolin Standard make it ideal for lipsticks of all shades and lip balm type products. It can be included in a variety of oil-based formulations such as bath oils, baby oils, cleansing and suntan oils. The high fluidity and clarity mean it can replace part of the mineral oil content providing enhanced emolliency.''

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by Albion9 View Post
      So, where does one acquire pure lanolin?
      I get it from Baldwins in the UK

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by AlHamr View Post
      Mrs Hamr and I spent an afternoon last spring packing fleeces on a friend's sheep farm. Lanolin certainly is animalic stuff. Mrs wasn't so convinced by the aphrodisiac qualities, but our hands did end up lovely and soft.
      The refined version was used for decades as a soothing product for baby nappy rash and worked wonders... It is still used by breastfeeding women too as it has soothing properties.
  • About the organizer and author of this series: Anya McCoy

    Anya is the organizer and editor for this series. Anya originally offered the natural perfume line “Anya’s Tropical Essences” on South Beach, Miami in 1991. Her studies in ethnobotany and landscape architecture always involved fragrant plants, a lifelong passion of hers. She is self-taught in the style of French classical perfumery, and has knowledge of Middle Eastern and Indian perfumery techniques. She is the President of the Natural Perfumers Guild and teaches basic perfumery at http://PerfumeClasses.com In 2012, she also spearheaded a cooperative writing effort on Basenotes, The State of Natural Perfumery 2012, which was the third-most-viewed feature for the year.

    Her products can be found at http://anyasgarden.com




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