A few years ago I stumbled upon Basenotes whilst looking at buying yet another bottle of Bugalri Black. I went into the the forums and looked at postings. I found it was a goldmine of information, such as who the perfumer was etc... Then I started reading a lot of other posts about brands that were being called "niche" that i had never heard of!
Basenotes got me into collecting as I met a lot of other Basenoters who quite frankly if not, should be in the perfume business. Their personal collections we have seen are Aladdin caves: Complete Guerlain collections, Poisson, Bee Jars, Bell jars from Serge Lutens. Wow! it just goes to show the in-house wealth of expertise we have within the community at Basenotes which incidentally led me to my own humble collection of over 200 full bottles of niche perfumes!
Having quickly discovered from Basenotes that Paris was a MECCA for perfumes, I started doing some serious sniffing. When the part-time Saturday staff in Sephora start calling you by your first name that could be a hint to sniff elsewhere!I sniffed my way round Paris and still do. Typically in a week I smell over a hundred bottles. It was on a general sniffing tour that I came across a bottle that wowed me, stopping me in my tracks bringing a smile to my face.
Tucked into the back of the shelf was this one bottle called Manakara from Indult. I was already a fan of the perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian so when there was the chance to meet him in the Maison Francis Kurkdjian at a signing, I approached him and at a chance meeting (at the official Maison Francis Kurkdjian shop signing) and after pulling out a dozen his other bottled creations (Le Male, Narciso Rodrigues etc) that he had done over his career from my knapsack for him to sign. He just relaxed and started talking to me about his perfume life.
Then we talked about the Indult chapter in his life and the regrets he had that the brand and perfumes would probably disappear! During the night an evil plan started taking place! Eighteen months of persuasion and negotiations and here we are!
Kurkdjian has made it clear that he is no longer interested in working for other niche brands as he wants to work on his own Maison Francis Kurkdjian and the bigger boys! Indult suddenly has a collection of 4 FK perfumes. Just remember these were created by him as an Associate of Indult on a exclusive limited edition before Maison Francis Kurkdjian. No accountants, No commercial briefs just pure Francis Kurkdjian creations!
This is the Francis Kurkdjian Collection. Next why NOT a Christopher Sheldrake or Dominic Ropion Collection? Why not give perfumers a platform where they can artistically express or create a perfume that they alone rate as a Masterpiece! Then let us in the community do the rest lol...
The four Indult fragrances being relaunched are Tihota, RÍve en Cuir, Manakara and Isvaraya. A fifth fragrance, C16, was produced by the brand in 2008 but that was exclusive to Colette, so it not included in the relaunch.
More information about the fragrances - notes and review extracts are below:
Notes: Vanilla bean, musks
It's very easy to write a review of Tihota. It's simply the best singular vanilla scent created
I am giving Tihota 5 stars becasue this truly is one of the best vanilla scents out there.
Mimi Gardenia, Basenotes
It is, without a sliver of a doubt, the finest pure vanilla weíve ever had the honor of carrying, and itís so beautiful it pains us to put the bottle down.
Notes: Patchouli, Indian plum tree, jasmine
Wow, this is a beautiful fragrance! Very oriental to my nose. Started out sweet with the plum and jasmine, then the dry-down was heavy and thick with patchouli and musk. Excellent lasting power (going on ten hours!) Better-suited for evening in my opinion.
Notes: rose, lychee
If Manakara the fragrance was a single fruit, I imagine it would be thin skinned and a rich royal purple, with a fragrant vanilla custard pulp and tiny orange seeds. It would grow on an aromatic blonde-wooded tree or bush and have thick, dark green and waxy leaves that had only a hint of fragrance. And this plant would preferentially grown near rose bushes. This mythical vegetation persists in my imagination whenever I wear Manakara. It's sweet, wet, and luscious one minute, and soft, velvety and dry the next. A beautiful and unusual fragrance, with moderate longevity and sillage. Yes, it is quite spendy but to me it's worth the cost.
RÍve en Cuir (2008)
Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Cardamom, Oregano, Clove Bud, Texan Cedarwood, Patchouli, Oak Moss, Haitian Vetyver, Crystallized Vanilla
RÍve en Cuir is stunning. To smell it is the equivalent of perusing the leather-bound, spices-filled cupboard of a James Beard award-winning chef. It's sexy and assured meets cozy and delectable. I'm enamored with it!
The fragrances are available exclusively at LuckyScent / ScentBar in the US, Jovoy Paris, online at Firstinfragrance.de and at the www.indult.fr web shop.
Indult.fr offer for Basenotes members only. Please quote your Basenotes ID in notes and 'kurkdjian' in the promo box for 10% discount and free shipping on 2 plus bottlles. Offer valid until January 5th.