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Fragrance Review: Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin

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Genre: Floral Oriental

La Fille de Berlin is a rose-centered composition, and with two outstanding rose fragrances in his portfolio already, one might wonder what Serge Lutens needed with a third. Sa Majesté la Rose is a bright, photorealistic portrait of a damask rose, and Rose de Nuit is a sultry rose chypre that reflects classics like Beautiful and Knowing through a modernist mirror. La Fille de Berlin occupies a comfortable middle ground between the two. It is both sweeter and more complex than Sa Majesté la Rose, yet more buoyant and lighthearted – more diurnal, if you will – than Rose de Nuit.

La Fille de Berlin’s plummy top notes introduce an intensely fruity, liqueur-like rose accord of admirable depth and richness. The rose is supported by patchouli, mellow woods, and amber, with discernable accents of incense and black pepper. The juxtaposition of rose, pepper, and incense has an antecedent in Caron’s lovely Parfum Sacré, while the rose itself is reminiscent in its plush texture of Guerlain’s Nahéma. La Fille de Berlin is a less weighty composition than either of these predecessors, yet it need not blush at the comparison. (Pink as it is in its bottle!) It is a cheerful, yet elegant, fragrance, and its rare combination of liveliness and poise make it a fine candidate for everyday wear.

For more reviews, see the entry for La Fille de Berlin in the Basenotes Directory.

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