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Way Off Scenter

Fragrance Review: Diptyque 34 Boulevard St. Germain

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Genre: Oriental

I can’t help but feel that the brief behind this anniversary release is misguided: attempting to capture the olfactory atmosphere inside the Diptyque flagship store almost guarantees a disorganized mish-mash of perfumes and scented candles. Indeed, the disparate elements thrown together here not only fail to cohere into a solid structure; they actually manage to cancel one another out. Reminders of older Diptyque scents flash by in the top notes - some fig sap from Philosykos, a dab of cinnamon and clove from Eau Lente, some zesty green notes from L’Ombre dans l’Eau - but the overall impression is muddled, congested, and ultimately bland.

Once the initial flurry of floral, green, and spice notes settles down, 34 Boulevard St. Germain emerges as a relatively undistinguished and straightforward amber oriental fragrance with a mildly interesting overlay of fig. The fig and sweet amber accord is linear and long-lasting, as I have come to expect from a Diptyque fragrance, but it lacks the character displayed so boldly in this house’s early offerings, much less any sense of the occasion its release was meant to celebrate.

For more reviews of 34 Boulevard St. Germain, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.

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Updated 16th July 2014 at 11:29 AM by Way Off Scenter

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