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Fragrance Review: Ann Gerard Perle de Mousse

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Genre: Green Floral

This is nice work in an uncharacteristic style (no incense, no leather, no oriental trappings,) from Bertrand Duchaufour. Intense galbanum and lentiscus top notes usher in a central accord of aldehydic green muguet and white flowers over a plush white musk foundation. The contrast between the brisk, effervescent green floral accord and the soft, caressing musk energizes Perle de Mousse like the mainspring of a mechanical watch. The nose waits in suspense as the two opposing forces teeter over an imaginary olfactory fulcrum: which way will the fragrance fall? The balanced juxtaposition of accords is maintained admirably for hours, until finally tipping (inevitably?) toward the cushiony musk base notes.

In the interim, gentle, yet recognizable jasmine and gardenia separate themselves from the white flower bouquet and drift past the nostrils. The gardenia, while characteristically fleeting, is one of the nicer renditions I’ve encountered for some time, and I find myself wishing it were more conspicuous and enduring. The drydown is smooth, soft, and enveloping. It manages somehow – through a dab of vanilla, perhaps – to avoid smelling like shampoo or laundry detergent, the twin menaces of clean white musk-household product associations. Fans of Chanel No. 19, Private Collection, and the original Vent Vert would do well to give this scent a try.

For more reviews of Perle de Mousse, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.

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Updated 12th July 2014 at 09:57 PM by Way Off Scenter

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