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Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Silk Mood

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Genre: Floral

Oud Silk Mood offers what has by now become a familiar combination of rose and oudh. Variants on this structure have been offered in numerous Montale releases, and in the superb Amouage Homage Attar, to name but a few. In this regard, Silk Mood is perhaps the most conventional of the three Kurkdjian “Oud Mood” fragrances. It is certainly less dry, less smoky, and less animalic than either of its two siblings. While it smells richer, softer, and more luxurious than, say, Montale Attar or Royal Aoud, Oud Silk Mood feels less complex and sophisticated, more linear in its development, than Homage Attar.

When such powerful and elemental notes as rose and oudh constitute the core of a fragrance, the experience hinges largely upon two factors: the quality of the ingredients and the proportions of the blend. Despite its name, Oud Silk Mood leans much more heavily toward rose than oudh. In this case it is a very fine, sweet, liqueur-like Bulgarian rose, and your enjoyment of the scent will depend almost entirely on how you feel about this sort of rose. If you enjoy the jammy rose in Serge Lutens’s La Fille de Berlin or Amouage’s Lyric Woman, you’re liable to enjoy Oud Silk Mood. If not, you’ll have to look elsewhere for a drier, crisper rose-oudh composition.

For more reviews of Oud Silk Mood, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.

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