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Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Cashmere Mood

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Genre: Woody Oriental

This is by a narrow margin my favorite of Francis Kurkdjian’s three “Oud Mood” fragrances. Medicinal oudh jumps out from the very start, supported mostly by warm, animalic labdanum. The composition sounds simple, but the effect is intricate and nuanced, thanks to the inherent complexity of the two central notes. Though the ingredient is not mentioned in the pyramid, the oudh accord here has the kind of crackling, smoky aspect I have come to associate with cypriol, and which can be experienced in conspicuous form in Bertrand Duchaufour’s Timbuktu and Dzongkha.

While the perfume extract is reasonably potent, it seems to wear fairly closely. The fragrance may not project any great distance, but it’s powerful enough within an intimate range. Since Oud Cashmere Mood consists almost entirely of traditional base note materials, it progresses in a smooth, gentle arc from its medicinal opening to its animalic drydown. If the smoky, animalic, and medicinal aspects of oudh appeal to you, you’re very likely going to enjoy Oud Cashmere Mood (as well as its sibling, Oud Velvet Mood).

For more reviews of Oud Cashmere Mood, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.

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