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Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Homme

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Genre: Woody Oriental

The idea of amyris (West Indian sandalwood, elemi,) and iris is an interesting one, but the execution here is simply too unrelievedly sweet and foody for me to enjoy. Bright citrus top notes usher in the central elemi and iris accord, which is heavily sweetened with cocoa, coconut, and coffee. The use of balsamic wood and coffee brings to mind Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s masterful Santal Noble, but that scent is both drier and far less “edible” smelling than Amyris Homme. Powdery sweetness persists through the drydown, which leans heavily on tonka and soft, buttery iris root. Of the listed oudh I sense very little, which is a shame, since its medicinal edge would go far to counterbalance the composition’s borderline cloying sweetness. Gourmand lovers may enjoy this scent more than I do, but I find it one of the less attractive offerings in Francis Kurkdjian’s generally outstanding line.

For more reviews of Amyris Homme, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.

Click here for more reviews by Way Off Scenter.

Updated 13th July 2014 at 08:55 PM by Way Off Scenter

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