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Fragrance Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Femme

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Genre: Woods

Green citrus top notes establish a brisk, refreshing olfactory presence as they usher in a central movement of elemi, a polite oudh reconstruction, amber, and iris. The composition smells a good deal less syrupy and opaque than its masculine counterpart, its iris less powdery and dense. Indeed, with its crisp vetiver foundation, Amyris Femme is a much more “rugged” fragrance than Amyris Homme, which features borderline cloying gourmand cocoa and coffee notes. Go figure!

Whereas I found the oudh elusive in Amyris Homme, its presence here is obvious, if far from overwhelming, and it offers an effective counterbalance to the sweet, balsamic aspects of the composition. Frankly, I find the greener, woodier Amyris Femme much easier to wear as a man than Amyris Homme. I wondered briefly whether my samples were mislabeled, but checking the published pyramids for both scents confirms that Amyris Femme has the vetiver and Amyris Homme is the gourmand. So much for gender stereotypes! This is the Amyris I’m more likely to wear.

For more reviews of Amyris Femme, see the entry in the Basenotes Directory.

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Updated 16th July 2014 at 02:55 AM by Way Off Scenter




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