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Wild Gardener

Femme

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Not exactly Egghead Weds Hourglass but not far from it; Peaches and Cream Floral meets Cumin Leather Chypre. The contrast is extreme, the balance precarious and perfect. This was only the third perfume by Roudnitska and already a first masterpiece.

Roudnitska wasn't content with turning out mere pretty perfume, he liked to use odd themes in his work, and in Femme the stone he threw into the pool was cumin.

Femme is a lactonic, pink fruity floral with a dark bitter underside, which gives it depths of expression that most fruity florals do not attempt. Because the dark base notes are held in check they never obscure the sumptuous beauty of Femme's peachy theme. But the contrast between the lovely pink top half and the underlying bitter darkness sets up a complicated dynamic that, like chiascuro in painting, actually serves to highlight the beauty of the theme.

The way these olfactory and emotional contrasts were handled by Roudnitska is quite brilliant. Because of this, and the fact that he did not shy away from complicated, or even conflicting elements in his work, Femme could be seen as the Godmother of Niche, as well as being one of the most beautiful perfumes of all time.

Updated 29th June 2019 at 05:21 PM by Wild Gardener

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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000