A Response to a Question about Top, Middle, and Base Notes
by, 12th October 2011 at 07:23 AM (2484 Views)
Hermès Eau des Merveilles was supposed to have been engineered as a reverse fragrance: that is, the normal base notes were supposed to behave as top notes (i. e., evaporate fairly quickly), and the usual top notes were supposed to last into the drydown.
I suppose it would be possible to use citrus absolutes or concretes rather than essential oils, since the absolutes and concretes are supposed to be more suited for use in base notes; they retain the molecules longer and disperse less quickly because they are "weighed down" by solids present in them, such as waxes. I am not sure how the reverse would be done, but I imagine in might be possible to take some base note materials, such as resinoids or oleoresins and "wash" them by treatment with solvents (such as alcohols) to remove some of the solids and thus speed up their dispersion rates. This might result in some materials that are normally used as base notes behaving more like essential oils, and dispersing more rapidly.
I would think this would be difficult with many typically base-note materials, because they often contain odor elements that have a much lower odor detection threshold. For example, in rose oil, beta-damascenone is only present at about one percent volume, but it is responsible for roughly 90% of the odor impression of rose oil...
I was able to find some articles online about citrus oils' odor detection thresholds, but since I am not a professional in the field or a subscriber to the journals, I could only read the abstracts, and so could not go into details. Tant pis...
I suppose a perfumer could answer this question better. Is anyone out there in Basenotes cyberspace who can weigh in on this?
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