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Anomie's Bonhomie: Un salon littéraire de parfums or THE REAL IN THE LIBRARY

Nascent Fragrance Love

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June 2012:
Very recently swept into manic limerence with scents of all kinds. In May 2012, I read Sanchez and Turin's guide to satisfy a passing curiosity about what "chypre" and "fougere" mean. I sent for samples of the most appealing descriptions, and the first four tested may just remain eternal favorites: Fracas, Visa, Bvlgari Black, and Gucci Rush. One month later, I now have around fifty+ assorted bottles, minis, and samples.

As of yet, I still can't pick out very many individual notes and have no familiarity with niche (putting it off, as designer has its campy yet high art appeal). Men's and women's fragrances alike please my nose, cheap and exclusive, including plenty of new scents, even in reformulation, but vintage does seem like the best concentration for my growing collection.

Natural is good, but synthetic is better, like synthpop of the 80s, I have a strong attraction to aldehydes but can't decide if they're wearable, as it's mostly a Wonders of Chemistry fixation.

____

(For personal reference)

Moods of fragrance I look for:

contemplative
insolent
avant-garde
disturbing
campy
decadent
pristine
haughty
detached
sexual/animalic
ironic
capricious
nostalgic
futuristic

roles i like my fragrances to enhance:
hippie/bohemian
hermit queen (Garbo)
dandy--mostly a 60s-70s reinterpretation, male
sequestered aesthete (Proust)
kitsch queen
new wave walking art piece
tragic heroine
90s waif
Japanese street style-contradictions
poet/dreamer
ballerina
1920s emancipated woman/"ballbreaker"
Stevie Nicks goes high fashion goth
Anita Pallenberg
Studio 54
opium denizen
drippy romantic
s&m



Notes:
LOVE: (a lot these are ones people consistently report as bothersome or undesirable) patchouli, rose, violet, galbanum, tuberose, musk, civet, oakmoss, jasmine, vanilla, incense, vetiver, coffee, metallics, aldehydes, poppy, daisy, sage, indole, lily, tobacco, chamomile, cucumber, aloe, juniper, witch hazel, cannabis, mint, ivy, rice, matte, nettle, tea, dirt,
ketones, milk, tonka bean, coriander, tamarind, caramel, popcorn!, salt, pepper
Favorite houses: Guerlain, Givenchy, Mugler, Vintage Balmain, Chanel, Piguet, Dior


Noses of most interest: Buxton, Cellier, Menardo, Caron, Roucel.

Updated 3rd July 2012 at 10:29 PM by anomie et ivoire

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  1. RHINORAY2's Avatar
    My son bought me Turin and Sanchez's book for Fathers Day. Just spent more money on frags, my wife thinks I'm nuts, but I'm hooked. Tried PDN "New York", "Patcholi Intense" and just ordered "Eau de Gurlain". The PDN's are excellent.
  2. anomie et ivoire's Avatar
    The way Turin/Sanchez present info made me want to learn everything. The chemistry and history aspects fascinated me most at first, but now I'm on to pure sensory delight.

    That's one cool son you have! Can't wait to try PDN NY and Patchouli Intense.
    Everyone in my life thinks this hobby is nuts too, especially as it's sort of out of character for me (always a vintage fashion nut but anti-makeup and almost hippie-like natural). So we've both boarded the mother ship here at Basenotes...


    Quote Originally Posted by RHINORAY2
    My son bought me Turin and Sanchez's book for Fathers Day. Just spent more money on frags, my wife thinks I'm nuts, but I'm hooked. Tried PDN "New York", "Patcholi Intense" and just ordered "Eau de Gurlain". The PDN's are excellent.
  3. mr. reasonable's Avatar
    Sacrébleu & Odalisque are also worth a look if you are exploring PDN. It's great they they offer 30ml. bottles - I wish more did that
  4. RHINORAY2's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by anomie et ivoire
    The way Turin/Sanchez present info made me want to learn everything. The chemistry and history aspects fascinated me most at first, but now I'm on to pure sensory delight.

    That's one cool son you have! Can't wait to try PDN NY and Patchouli Intense.
    Everyone in my life thinks this hobby is nuts too, especially as it's sort of out of character for me (always a vintage fashion nut but anti-makeup and almost hippie-like natural). So we've both boarded the mother ship here at Basenotes...
    Thanks He's a great son and my daughter is just as wonderful. She's a looking for work FIT Fashion Design graduate. I started him off with Encre Noir and Burberry London My daughter is keen on Bulgari Rose Essentielle.
  5. anomie et ivoire's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable
    Sacrébleu & Odalisque are also worth a look if you are exploring PDN. It's great they they offer 30ml. bottles - I wish more did that
    Ah yes, I ended up hating PDN NY, only because it was far too citrusy and probably much more for a man. Really smelled like a steam-ironed Guerlain, but I guess that's Nicolai's Guerlain blood?

    Casual request for opinion: might someone who dislikes NY like Odalisque and Sacrébleu or any other PDN? Gonna browse notes and see...

    Like most who start to develop any of their own taste, I have found that I do not agree with most of Turin's assessments, though I always enjoy the scientific angle he brings to analysis. Sanchez' literary, unpretentious tastes are a lot more interesting.

    But hey, The Guide is good fun. Sort of like those Robert Christgau record review books from the 70s and 80s though: it dismisses a lot of stuff on the basis of pet peeves and minor quibbles. Better would be a perfume critic equivalent of Greil Marcus or even a Lester Bangs; essayistic and fair or ecstatically biased.
  6. rubegon's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by anomie et ivoire
    Casual request for opinion: might someone who dislikes NY like Odalisque and Sacrébleu or any other PDN? Gonna browse notes and see...
    Absolutely - she's the last active (I think?) Guerlain family perfumer, the president of the Osmotheque ... she's got some range. Her style is not as soft as the classic Guerlain style - the guerlinade has a smoothening effect that unifies many of the iconic compositions of the family over the generations. PdN's style is a bit harsher, more strident, by comparison, but the compositions are unique, and each has something to say. They tend to be polarizing, so even if you hate NY, there's a very good chance you'll find something in the range you love.

    I haven't really explored the femme range. I love NY and like Vanille Tonka quite a lot. I want to try the colognes. Next time I'm in Paris I'm going to check them all out and probably walk out with a liter of one of them.
  7. mr. reasonable's Avatar
    I like all three so can't help here, really, much as I would like to. Good luck.
  8. mr. reasonable's Avatar
    They are very different - Patrica de Nicolai is quite capable of creating excellent work in different styles

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