Elf's Compendium of Notes 9- Givaudan's Rose
by, 22nd June 2009 at 12:14 PM (1380 Views)
Rose absolute and rose attars are among the most expensive and ubiquitous ingredients in perfumery, along with jasmine and orris, ambergris and oudh. The vast majority of mainstream and niche fragrances don't use naturals for these notes anymore, and haven't for at least a decade. There are many aromachemicals used to mimic rose absolute, but the one I like the best is by Givaudan, titled simply, "Rose".
But does Rose smell like a rose? Well, more like a hyper-rose. If naturals are like subtle, glowing egg tempera paints, then synthetic florals are more like acrylics, shiny, bright colors, and sometimes very beautiful in their own right. Rose is beautiful, but does not evoke any variety of rose I've smelled in a garden. However, taken as its own creation, it's gorgeous and very useful in the perfume lab.
Can it work in combination with real rose absolute? I've tried to bolster Bulgarian and Turkish rose absolutes with Givaudan Rose, but I found, that in any proportion greater than 1%, the synthetic dominates the composition, and the natural rose is relegated to the background. G's Rose has incredible longevity, however, and used in very small proportion with natural florals, extends the floral heart of a fragrance for several hours. She's very flashy, though, a real diva, so it's best to encourage her to be peaceful around her sisters from the garden lest she trample them!
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