Female Noses and Perfumers - for Women's History Month Part 1
by, 8th February 2008 at 07:47 PM (15252 Views)
March is Women's History month and March 8th is International Women’s Day.
Quarry has proposed “diversity” month on the female fragrance forum and I’m interested in trying to wear only scents from Houses headed by women – or developed by female “noses”.
So that meant doing some research. With the directory down – I had to turn to Perfume Intelligence The Encyclopaedia of Perfume looking at their list of perfumers (noses). I was surprised how many women I found.
Most of them have the fragrances they created listed. A few are mysteries like "Madame Zen" who is only listed as "Russian born 'nose'; created fragrances for Lanvin". Anyone know which scents?
This list (below) does not include the names of all the women who launched Perfume Houses...will update later. But it will be interesting to see how many scents we all have that were created by women. Please add any I have missed.
I also began to do web searches of perfume blogs and press releases and to explore interviews found right here on basenotes.
Here’s what I’ve found so far:
Female Perfumers & Noses
Daniela (Roche) Andrier- winner of 3 Fifi’s
“Elegant in a sharp Prada shift dress, Andrier is the owner of three "Fifis", the perfume equivalent of an Oscar. Her creations include Lancome's Attraction and the eponymous Prada, the label's first male fragrance.”
Daniela Andrier fragrances that have won Fifi awards: Lancome Attraction (European Fifi, 2003), Armani Prive Pierre de Lune (2006).
See a A Life in the Day: Daniela Andrier in the UK Times Online.
Perfumes created by Daniela Andrier include:
Ermenegildo Zegna ZegnaIntenso (2007)
Giorgio Armani Emporio Armani He (1997)
Giorgio Armani Prive Pierre de Lune (2004)
Gucci Eau de Parfum (2002)
Gucci Rush for men (with Antoine Maisondieu)
Guerlain Angelique Noire (2005)
Lancome Attraction (2003, with Christian Biecher)
La Perla IO La Perla (1995)
Prada Amber Pour Homme / Prada Man (2006)
Prada Infusion d'Iris (2007)
Valentino Very Valentino (1998)
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche (reformulation, 2003)
Perfumer Germaine Cellier
“She was not afraid to use a large quantity of the aggressive aroma-chemical isobutyl quinoline in creating of the leather accord for Robert Piquet Bandit or 8% of galbanum for infusing Balmain Vent Vert with a fierce verdancy. She was also responsible for Robert Piguet Fracas (1948), Balmain Jolie Madame (1953), Balmain Monsieur Balmain (1964), and Nina Ricci Coeur-Joie (1946).”
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel
USA A successful woman ‘nose’; created 'Tommy Girl' for Tommy Hilfiger and 'Woman of Earth' for Avon Cosmetics
Dreamlife Avon Cosmetics 2002 An edp spray created by Calice Becker, with notes of Bangalore rose, ballerina freesia, passionflower nectar and white iris on base notes of sandalwood, amber and winter mimosa
Women of Earth Avon Cosmetics 1998 Created by Calice Becker, a floriental edp spray. Presented in a triangulated light green clear bottle with a silver cap and medallion suspended from the bottle neck.
Vent Vert Parfums Pierre Balmain 1990 Re-formulated by Calice Becker as a classical green fragrance with the heart notes strengthened to include hyacinth, rose and jasmine and the base notes with sage and sandalwood, classified B4f. Presented in simple square clear bottle with a green top reminiscent of a clump of grass bent by the wind
J’Adore Parfums Christian Dior 1999 September: created by Calice Becker of Quest International; a floral parfum consisting of a melange of exotic flowers embellished with equally exotic fruits, leaves and woods; the top star note is the Champaca flower allied with Indian mandarin and wild ivy leaves, oriental orchid, rose and violet, on a base of Damascus plum, precious amaranth wood and blackberry-flavoured Himalayan musk.
DKNY Energy for her Donna Karan 2002 Created by Calice Becker
DKNY Energy for him Donna Karan 2002 Created by Calice Becker
Beyond Paradise for men Estée Lauder 2003 Created by Calice Becker of Quest International, an edt; launch slogan 'an adventure of the senses'
Beyond Paradise for women Estée Lauder 2004 Created by Calice Becker of Quest International; an edp with crêpe jasmine is the key headspace technological floral fragrance. The bottle was designed in house and the face of the fragrance is Carolyn Murphy
What About Adam Joop! 1998 April: created by Calice Becker of Quest International, an aromatic fougère edt with green notes, bergamot, mandarin, lavender, cassis, cyclamen, rosewood, jasmine, cedar, patchouli, sandalwood, amber, moss, musk and leather.
Inès Inès de la Fressange 1999 Created by Calice Becker, a soft green floral fragrance
Tommy Girl Tommy Hilfiger 1996 Co-incided with Hilfiger’s debut clothing range for women. Created by Calice Becker a fresh green floral edt with top notes of mandarin, citrus, camellia, apple blossom, blackcurrant flowers and spearmint, heart notes of honeysuckle, violet, jasmine, Dakota lily, Cherokee rose and magnolia on base notes of cedar, sandalwood and heather.
From the Basenotes Directory:
Fragrances created by Calice Becker .
5 fragrances found (displaying 1 to 5)
J'Adore Christian Dior 1999
Gold Donna Karan 2006
Beyond Paradise for Men Estée Lauder 2004
What About Adam Joop! 1997
Vent Vert (new) Pierre Balmain 1990
Guess Gold (2006)
Jennifer Lopez Live Luxe (2006)
Shiseido Energizing (1999)
Banana Republic Alabaster (2006)
Ralph Lauren Polo Explorer (2007, with Harry Fremont)
Usher She (2007, with Richard Herpin)
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