Elf

How right you are! Modern fine fragrance perfumery is in a terrible state although I have noticed recently that there have been a couple of half decent new launches. I'm not really sure why we should have gotten into such a bad place. Fragrance houses select their new launches by commitee and play safe. I doubt if Poison, or Opium would have been launched today. There are too many fine fragrances on the market and the customer has become confused. I think the developers spend more money on the bottle and the ads than on the juice. Most new pefumes are not expected to last more than a few monthes, years at the most, on the shelf. We don't care for classics anymore. And don't get me started on all the new regulations which limit the use of vital raw materials. Get as many of the old classics as possible, there aren't going to be many left soon.

My thoughts exactly, David. Things could be a lot more exciting out there with new aromachemicals, newly discovered natural materials, lots of talent. So sad, isn't it?

I feel your pain.:o I smell synthetic overload in just about every new release I sample. It's almost to the point where I won't bother anymore.

Basically, I'll stick with vintage designers and some future exploring of higher-end niche.

Yes, the synthetic overload (and resulting headaches) is one of the main reasons I went the DIY route. Most of the perfumes I make for friends and family are over 50% natural, and several are totally natural. I think synthetics, used in small amounts, add structure and longevity. But only synthetics? Yuck!

I don't think it is a question of synthetics vs. naturals, with naturals being the good guys. Many perfumery notes cannot be achieved without synthetic aromachemicals, Muguet for example; no synthetics, no Diorissimo. Fine fragrance perfumery from Fougere Royale onwards has been about the creative use of new chemcals. What I am complaining about is the lazy, badly compounded fragrances that are being launched today. There are exceptions. There are creative people (perfumers, marketing people, etc.) who care about their product. Unfortunately, it seems that these are in the minority.

Yes, I love quite a few synthetics, and couldn't build many perfumes without them. What would Mitsouko be without C-14?? I agree that the problem is that most formulae for new perfumes these days, even many niche, seem slap-dashed together, with cheap chemicals often used instead of better quality ingredients. Some synthetics, like Cosmone and muscenone, are quite cher. I swear some perfumes by the bigger brands are created by computer programs, not people. Popular perfume "recipes" are plugged in, and a variation pops out. Could this be why so many new mainstream releases smell nearly identical?? ;-)

I hadn't thought of that but it makes perfect sense! Do a bit of market research, type in the results, and chose from a selection of standard formulae. Give it a bit of advertising, a bit of a fancy launch, watch it die after six monthes and then on to the next one. How depressing.