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Female Noses and Perfumers - Part 8

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Sophia Grojsman continued…


Paris (YSL) Yves Saint Laurent Beauté 1983 Created by Sophia Grojsman of IFF; a floral-bouquet parfum with top notes of mimosa, geranium, hawthorn and cassia; heart notes of rose, violet and orris with base notes of sandalwood, amber and musk, classified B3f. Presented in a flacon designed by Alain de Mourgues with rose petals facets and was made by Verrières Brosse, with a gold cap.

Paris Premières Roses Yves Saint Laurent Beauté 2003 Created by Laurent Bruyere in collaboration with Sophia Grojsman and Dominique Ropion

Yvresse Yves Saint Laurent Beauté 1994 Originally launched as ‘Champagne’ in 1993, he had to change the name after the French champagne growers brought a case against him in the French courts: the name is a play on the French word Ivresse, meaning drunkenness, and Yves! Created by Sophia Grojsman; a fresh fruity chypre edt with top notes of cassis, nectarine and mint leaves, heart notes of mimosa, white lily and rose on base notes of patchouli, vetiver and oak moss. Presented in a bottle designed by Pierre Dinand. Dis-continued in 1997


[/COLOR]Natalie Gracia-Ceto,
http://www.perfumeintelligence.co.uk.../GaciaCeto.htm


Burberry Brit Burberrys of London 2003 September; created by Natalie Gracia-Ceto, an edp with notes of of lime, icy pear, green almond, white peony, sugared almond, mahogany wood, amber, vanilla beans and tonka beans. Presented in a bottle designed by Fabien Baron. Won in the Luxe category in 2004.

Burberry Brit Red Burberrys of London 2004 Created by Natalie Gracia-Cetto, an edp vapo, with notes of green mandarin, rhubarb, gingerbread, jasmine, rose, vanilla, patchouli, benzoin, sandalwood and vanilla bean. Presented in a bottle designed by Fabien Baron. Awarded the Fifi for Women's Nouveau Niche in 2005
Higher Energy Parfums Christian Dior 2003 Created by Carlos Vinals in conjuction with Natalie Gracia-Cetto, a woody-spicy masculine edt

Tumulte pour Homme Parfums Christian LaCroix 2005 October. Created by Nathalie Gracia-Cetto with notes of cedar from the Atlas Mountains, from Texas, from China and Virginia, USA.

Essentiel Eau Jeune 2001 In association with Gemey; created by Nathalie Gracia-Ceto in collaboration with Olivier Pescheux

Woman Gloria Vanderbilt 2001 Created by Nathalie Gracia-Ceto in collaboration with Olivier Pescheux

Sentiment Escada Beauté 2000 Created by Nathalie Gracia-Ceto in collaboration with Laurent Bruyere, a floriental fragrance with top notes of red currant, green mandarin and magnolia blossom, heart notes of May rose, Indian tuberose, Verona iris and heliotrope, on base notes of rosewood, vanilla and sandalwood. Presented in a clear glass heart shaped bottle designed by Serge Mansau
Puma Man Puma 2002 Created by Natalie Gracia-Ceto



Florence Gunnarson,

USA - A self-taught society perfumer of the 1940’s; started mixing perfumes in a spare room of her wealthy parents home in Chicago; also perfumed bath oils and other toiletry items; bought out by Lisa Lewis-Manrique in 1966; due to resurgence in interest in vintage clothing in early 2000’s; re-launched five key products


Lynn Harris,
UK Perfumer; born in Yorkshire in 1968, studied in Paris in 1992 with Monique Schlienger of Cinquiéme Sens; in 1996 went to Grasse and worked with Richard Melchio of Robertet: opened a perfume boutique Miller Harris Perfumers in Notting Hill, London in 2000.
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