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Female Noses and Perfumers - Part 9

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Victoire Gobin-Daudé,
Perfumer; established Perfums Gobin-Daudé
(interview in French)
portrait of

Les parfums de Victoire Gobin-Daudé
"Jardins Ottomans" évoque le Maroc, la terre humide : c'est un parfum ambré, épicé. "Nuit au Désert" est une fragrance boisée, sensuelle. "Biche dans l'Absinthe", c'est à la fois le cuir animal et l'odeur du feuillage. "Sève Exquise" évoque l'iris, les bourgeons printaniers. "Sous le Buis" rappelle l'enfance, le parfum du buis dans la douceur du soir."

My bad translation: "Ottoman Gardens" evokes Morocco, wet earth: it is a spiced amber perfume. "Night with the Desert" is a woody sensual fragrance,. "Hind in the Wormwood", it is at the same time animalic leather and has the scent of leaves. "Exquisite Sap" evokes iris, the spring buds. "Under the Boxwood" childhood, recalls the perfume of the boxwood in the softness of the evening."

Lyn Harris

Coeur d'Ete

Sarah Horowitz, USA Californian based perfumer; at Harrods of Knightsbridge, London in 2003

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz,
USA Perfumer; of Colorado, Essence Oils and a higher end line, Parfums des Beaux Arts. Has developed perfumes for other companies, including Eau for Jules & Jane, and 'Boheme' and 'Cielo' for Napa Valley Fragrances (created in collaboration with Christopher Brosius of CB I Hate Perfume).

Florence Idier
, Perfumer, e.g. created ' First Eau Legere' in 2000
B.Green Brooksfield
Lily Parfums Christian Dior 1999 Created by Florence Idier
Comme des Garçons Series 1 : Leaves - Lily Comme des Garçons 2000 A floral fragrance created by Florence Idier
First eau Légére sans alcohol Parfums Van Cleef & Arpels 2000 Created by Florence Idier

Alexandra Jouet, Perfumer, e.g. created 'Balmya' for Balmain in 2003 and in 2005 'Wish Pink Diamond' with Jean Jacques for Chopard

Cecile Krakower,
Perfumer, awarded the Rising Star award in the category of Corporate Fragrance in 2003

L’Heure Magique Laura Mercier Created by James Bell in collaboration with Cecile Krakower
Just Musk Parfums Lenthéric 2000 Re-created by Cecile Krakower

M V 3 MAC Cosmetics Created by Cecile Krakower a floriental fragrance with notes of bergamot, balsam, leather, jasmine, vetiver, vanilla and amber. Re-released in August 2005

Zita Paula Dorf 2003 Created by perfumers Cecile Krakower and Ralf Schwieger,a parfum spray with notes of tea rose, fresh cut grass, freesia, galbanum, peach, pink peony, iris, sandalwood and musk

Vertigo Vertigo 2005 Created by Cecile Krakower

Sophie Labbé,

A senior perfumer with International Flavors & Fragrances; eg her creations include
Nina Ricci Premier Jour,
Givenchy Organza,
Hugo Boss Boss Woman, and
Comme des Garçons Series 1: Tea.

She was the first woman to be awarded the Prix François Coty for 2005, which recognizes the perfumer’s achievements
Promesse Parfums Cacharel 2005 September ; the first fragrance designed specifically for the US market, created by Carlos Benaïm and Sophie Labbé, an edt with notes of blackberry, mandarin, bergamot, sambac jasmine, orchid, amber, musk, cedar and sandalwood.

Jardins de Soleil Escada Beauté 1996 (Garden of the Sun) A limited edition; created by Sophie Labbé, a floral edt with notes of peach, apricot, wild raspberry, crocus, hyacinth and wild rose

Emporio Armani Elle/She Parfums Armani 1998 August; Created by Sophie Labbé a classical floral-oriental chypre edt with top notes of pear, pineapple and mandarin, heart notes of lily of the valley, orris, heliotrope and jasmine on base notes of sandalwood, cedar, Tonka bean and musk

Organza Parfums Givenchy 1996 Created by Sophie Labbé a floral oriental edp with top notes of sap, bergamot, cassis, orange flower and rosewood, heart notes of gardenia, tuberose, honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, peony, mace and nutmeg on base notes of vanilla, amber, cedar, guaîac wood, sandalwood, orris and musk. Presented in a bottle designed by Serge Mansau

Organza First Light Parfums Givenchy Created by Sophie Labbé

Very Irrésistible for Women Parfums Givenchy Created by by Carlos Benaïm in collaboration with Sophie Labbé and Dominique Ropion

Folie Douce Parfums Grès 1998 Created by Sophie Labbé in collaboration with Nathalie Lorson, a crisp fruity-floral edt with top notes of citrus, black current and mimosa, heart notes of heliotrope, iris, ylang-ylang, bay and lemon leaf on base notes of vanilla, cedar, musk and sandalwood; Presented in a bottle designed by Serge Mansau

Boss Woman Hugo Boss 2000 September; created by Sophie Labbé; a floral edp with top notes of orange, mandarin and kumquat, heart notes of passion flower, Cananga flower, freesia and orris on base notes of sandalwood, vanilla and cedar. Presented in an elegant and minimalistic half-moon shaped flacon

Joop Jump Joop! Parfums A masculine edt vapo created by Sophie Labbé

Laura Biagiotti A citrus floral fragrance created by Sophie Labbé

Premier Jour Parfums Nina Ricci 2001 Created by Carlos Carlos Benaïm in collaboration with Sophie Labbé; an oriental floral edp with notes of yellow mandarin, gardenia, white dragee, sweet pea, Mysore sandalwood and musk. Presented in a bottle designed by Fabien Baron

Popy Moreni Cirque Popy Moreni Created by Sophie Labbé

G de Gigli Roméo Gigli Created by Sophie Labbé

Roméo di Roméo Gigli Roméo Gigli 1989 Created by Sophie Labbé a floral fragrance with top notes of bergamot, pettitgrain, neroli, bitter orange, verbena and rose wood, heart notes of artemisia, tarragon, rosemary, clary sage, rose, geranium, clove and pimento seed on base notes of patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, oak moss, pine balsam, tonka bean, light tobacco, ambergris, castoreum, civet, musk, labdanum and Russian leather. Presented in an inverted cone shaped bottle with a yellow base and tapering black neck top, which pierces a white swirl designed by Romeo Gigli.

L'Eau women S.T. Dupont Created by Loc Dong in collaboration with Sophie Labbé

Sport Jil Sander for Women Jil Sander Cosmetics 2005 Created by Béatrice Piquet in collaboration with Sophe Labbé

Amor pour Homme
Parfums Cacheral 2006 April in Europe. In August in USA. Created by Pierre Wargnye in collaboration with Sophie Labbé in association with L’Oréal Produits de Luxe International. An edt

Cologne du 68 Guerlain 2006 Re-orchestration of the 2002 by Sophie Labbé, with notes of green tangerine, lemon petit-grain, limette, star anise, coriandre, cardamom, pepper, immortelle, opoponax, and cedar.



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