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mysticknot's brief


08th January, 2000


A unisex, spicy chypre taking inspiration from French vintage perfumes . Rich, slightly oily in personality, yet sparkling with non sweet fruit accord, woods and moss . A full bodied aroma with longevity and some sillage .

It should have broad appeal to the modern perfume connoisseur -man and woman .

Texture and Personality

Smooth, silky but with an edge like Thai silk grains of something a little rough running though it would make it more interesting.

A round ball of golden Thai silk, soft yet durable. Distinctive, slightly broody and classy .Passionate and strong yet chic . Think Ava Gardner and Charlie Chaplin, Dean Martin, John Kennedy , Jean Harlow. A classic style fragrance that will not be forgotten when smelt on a wearer . Romantic ,poetic ,reminiscent of a golden age yet totally wearable in the new Millenium by both sexes of discriminating taste in perfume, wine, food and lifestyle.


Taking inspiration from complex vintage perfumes of the Guerlain and maybe also the Caron type- it should open a little bracing, crisp, fresh and develop into a full bodied ,slightly creamy ,slightly sweet aroma right to the drydown .

Accords for consideration and inspiration

Lemon, Bergamot, Heliotrope, Almond , Apricot, Pear, Peach, Plum, Rose, Violet, Anise, Cinnamon, Woody notes, oakmoss ( yes ! please ), treemoss, musk, patchouli, honey, vanilla, ambergris ,white amber notes.

Submitted by mysticknot

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    • Redneck Perfumisto | 13th January 2010 02:22

      I like the way this one harkens - very intentionally and directly - back to the old feminine Guerlains which have become unisex through time. What's interesting to me is that even Guerlain might have trouble coming up with a brief that called for them to go directly back to their roots on a NEW fragrance. But for Basenotes, this is simply not a problem. It is, in some ways, a real opportunity for us. We have one perfumer who admits loving Mitsouko, and all three have stated their love of such classics and those older, really expressive perfumes. So I guess I would say - because the first criterion of our fragrance should be that the perfumer be completely in love with the brief - that this may be the one that creates a truly great Basenotes fragrance.

      This one is also neo-classical in the sense of L'Avant, which is more of a men's side phenomenon. Thus, this one offers to reinforce that message of quality, classic perfume construction, but in a feminine.

      I like the silk imagery, and think that an exotic silk theme, comparable in some ways to Mitsouko as Eastern-inspired, but maybe something different (as you mention, Thai-influenced), would be very workable in getting an old French perfumery vibe.

    • Leesee | 13th January 2010 05:21

      You have an intriguing combination of notes. I especially like how you have emphasized the mossy aspect of the scent.

    • Mimi Gardenia | 13th January 2010 05:32

      Gee thanks Redneck and Leesee ! :) That's so kind of you !

    • selky | 14th January 2010 01:51

      A classic chypre for the 21st century... I like the Thai silk texture image - smooth but with a rougher element. The notes suggested give scope for something really good. This could also be easily marketable.

    • Kevin Guyer | 21st January 2010 04:50

      I'd buy this one blind! I love the way it crosses over from chypre into oriental, nice work. I share your belief that elegance transcends gender.

    • ComDiva | 24th January 2010 19:10

      Love the olfactory image this one engenders! A spicy, oriental chypre... Sign me up! I would plead, however, that the "violet" note be violet leaf rather than flower, both from personal preference and how well I think it would blend with the rest of the notes mentioned. Nice work, mysticknot!!!