Murchie's Musings: Costume National Scent Intense Parfum, Prada Tendre and Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionelle


26th November, 2006

Costume National Scent Intense Parfum


Costume National have done it again with their latest limited edition Intense Parfum. For fans of the scent I really think this is the holy grail! It has all the wonderful depth and character of Scent Intense, but has the lasting power and potency of a parfum. Costume National tell me that it contains 25% pure parfum oil which is a huge concentration to find in a 100ml bottle.

Talking of which the bottle (pictured) is the same design as the rest of the Scent line but this time is presented in a very eye catching brilliant red enamel finish. A wonderfully tactile bottle, feels heavy and comforting in the hand. There is also an unusually tactile “Geisha” key ring comes with this limited edition. Designed by Capasa himself, its a great addition to the scent even though some may think it a little “kinky” in design.

Going back to the juice itself, it starts off with the fresh “plump” mother of pearl hibiscus and jasmine tea accord which slowly mellows to the almost powdery amber base. A simple scent in construction, but still manages to intrigue. I feel Costume National don’t do this scent justice by marketing it as a feminine scent as I truly believe its easily (sometimes better!) worn by a man. Personally I have received many compliments whilst wearing this scent from the most unlikely people. If you like Costume National Scent Intense, I strongly recommend you pick this one up whilst its available, its truly superb.

Prada Tendre


This is the latest incarnation of this wonderful scent from Prada. Its still EDP strength but has been reworked in a similar way as Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionnelle. Prada have stripped this scent right back to the mid notes and replaced the top with a much softer and fresher feel. The patchouli now takes a back seat making way for Siamese Benzoin and a Plum Accord. Still recognisable as the Prada scent but again I feel this is to capture the younger market. The juice is now a delicate lilac colour, replacing the browny/green of the original.

At first spray the familiar opening has gone being replaced by something reminiscent of YSLs’ Cinema. Much fruitier and more transparent. This quickly progresses to the more familiar mid notes of the original, but again this is softened and tamed. As the fragrance nears its base, it regains many of the characteristics of the original with the patchouli reclaiming centre stage.

If this scent was a drink it would be an effervescent glass of crystal clear pink champagne. This scent is a wonderful variation, much easier to wear in the warmer months but not a plain ole “summer” version by any means.

Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionelle


This is the wonderful new scent by Agent Provocateur. Eau Emotionnelle really is a great deal more than just the EDT version of the original. The top has been completely stripped away and replaced by a much softer, smoother blend of breezy cape snow bush, Lie de Vin and Pink Pepper. This has the effect of transforming the scent from bold and sexy to shy and seductive. The familiar mid notes of the scent are still very present but have changed from a sharp, bright rose to a softer “baby pink” rose note with just a hint of the familiar sharpness of the original. As the scent progresses to the base it becomes much more like the original scent “toned down”.

To me it seems that AP have tried to capture the younger, more playful woman who flirts shyfully rather than the sexy seductive and confident woman of the original.

In saying this I feel its just a wearable for men as the original is. I have worn this myself and received many compliments from my co-workers. Comments like “what a lovely aftershave your wearing”. They were suprised to find it was in fact Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionnelle and in fact marketed towards women. I feel its like a “Rose D’Homme - light”. Imagine this scent with the suede/leather notes stripped away to leave mostly the soft rose. Very nice indeed.

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About the author: Colin Murchie

Colin Murchie was born in Glasgow, and is now living in Nottinghamshire. He has a collection of over 1000 fragrances.

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